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A LITTLE JOURNEY AROUND 
THE WORLD. 




MAY IT INDUCE SOME TO DO THE SAME. 



Chicago 
1906 




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/Joyfully do i dedicate these pages to two 
H mothers who have made this journey pos- 

Q SIBLE for us, mothers IN EVERY SENSE OF 
THE WORD. 



"A mother is a mother still, 
The holiest thing alive." 



25 r90S 



COPYRIGHT, 1906 
BY M. A. READ. 



A Little Journey Around 
the World. 



* 



September 13, 1905. 

It is the fashion or rather old fashion to begin ones notes 
with an apology. 

I have no apology to make in keeping this record, it is 
written wholly for my friends and is something which I may 
refer to, to recall my wanderings. 

There are many reasons for taking a trip around the world, 
and leaving a pleasant home, family and friends. It should not 
only bring back health, but should be an education that will 
make one understand his fellow being better, to broaden his 
view and last if not first the pleasure one obtains from travel. 

The lights of Chicago were very dim through the tears 
that would come to our poor weak eyes as the Overland 
Limited pulled out promptly on time — eight o'clock. 

I cannot leave Chicago without a thought of her who 
has been a mother to me in a way for so many years, and when 
some rowdy fired a shot through the car window, missing a 
man's head by a foot, it brought to mind the many people who 
have grown up in Chicago through all its rioting, strikes, 
etc., to forget what law is, and when boys of ten and fifteen 
go around and openly defy the law, carrying revolvers as 
they wish, it is time a strict hand was placed over the city. 



6 America, 

But, withal, it is a great city and has produced a set of men 
who for business capacity can defy the world. Hei- climate is 
trying and when one can become accustomed to it they should 
be able to stand anything in the world. But the Overland 
Limited waits for no sentiment of this kind. She speeds us 
on our straight path across Illinois and Iowa and the morning 
brings us to Council Bluffs. 

I tell N how Lewis and Clark here met the Indians 

in council and for that reason named the place. She said she 
thought it was because they bluffed the Indians. Please for- 
give her ; she is only a girl. 

It is strange to note the different methods of farming as 
we go along each hundred miles or so. They have a way of 
their own. Nebraska seems turned over to cattle and corn 
and is certainly a booming state. 

Our last stop is Kearney. It is just six o'clock, I suggest 
supper and N. says yes, but we turn our watches back an 
hour here. Time has beat us out of our supper by one hour, 
and so it will be tmtil we get home, ever trying to keep pace 
with sun and time. 

September 14TH, 1905. 

Last night, after passing through several rain storms, we 
came out under a silver moon. I anticipated some beautiful 
views from our observation car and although we were but a 
short distance north of Denver, "A city of mountains," our 
view was of a flat and uninteresting country which drove us 
early to bed. 

Up to noon to-day our ride has been through that dried 
up and uncultivated region which covers the greater part of 
Wyoming and adjacent states. Nature never intended man 
to live in such a place, or at most derive anything from the 



America. 7 

soil. All that there is, is the atmosphere, which Chicago 
should buy by the cubic mile. I had thought we were away 
from all traces of civilization until I saw an automobile being 
repaired beside a countr}^ road just as I have seen on Sheridan 
Road a hundred times. A little farther on a cow was munch- 
ing grass in a grave yard, securely tied to a head stone. 

Our dining car having been smashed in a wreck, we are 
thankful that our kind friends behind have provisioned us for 
our trip. 

At last we have left the sage brush and rocks and rolled 
down into one of Idaho's fertile and well-watered valleys 
where stock raising keeps people busy. The hills have grown 
to mountains which look to block us at every turn of the 
way, but somehow man has found a path down which our 
train speeds westward. Our company has changed to a crowd 
of army men, handsome as they go. 

To-night we are ten hours late, but still have hopes to 
make it up. 

September 15TH, 

Having gone at a snail's pace through the hills and moun- 
tains of Idaho, we have swooped down this afternoon at the 
very end of our journey into a country which made even 
such frontiersmen as Lewis and Clark grow eloquent in de- 
scription. It is indeed a fitting end to our first jaunt. 

Set in by hills five or six thousand feet, the Columbia leaps 
down on her journey to the sea. Whether she is the ''Gem of 
the Ocean" remains to be seen; but she is certainely a gem. 
Her water, a dark blue, capped white here and there where 
the rocks break forth. I have heard and read many descrip- 
tions of the railroad along the Hudson, but I doubt if it is 
far ahead of this which we hear so little of, and one may 



8 America. 

throw a stone from the car to the river almost all the way down 
to Portland. 

This morning at ten o'clock we stopped at the little town 
of Kanula just 4,203 feet above the sea. We left our two 
panting locomotives and with one little engine made better 
time than with two. We are three hours late, but it might 
be worse. 

As we draw near to Portland our train grows more crowded 
with Pilgrims going to pay homage to Capt. Clark and Lieut. 
Lewis. What a change has been wrought since first they 
brought their band out here. They took over a year to come 
where we have been in three days. 

PORTLAND, OREGON. 

We have installed ourselves in one of Portland's best 
hotels and after a good night went to the Exposition. To- 
night at six o'clock we have seen the Fair, and have seen 
it well. 

How anyone would travel from Chicago here to see it I 
cannot see. It is something you would not want to miss if 
you had it in your own city, but as for its being anything like 
a World's Fair or St. Louis Fair it is not, and were it not for 
the Government would rank little better than the Oregon State 
Fair. There is the same conglomerate exhibitions of foreign 
merchants who it would seem have simply come here to dis- 
pose of their own productions rather than exhibit their fine 
wares. Japan, Turkey, Italy, Egypt and Germany have filled 
every nook and corner with such a mass of trinkets that it 
looks like a Clark Street pawn shop. 

There are two redeeming features which really do credit 
to the Fair, that is the Government exhibit and the Forestry 
Building with a few state buildings adding less of interest. 



America. 9 

The Forestry building is a huge building built entirely of 
undressed Oregon Fir, a very strong wood and straight as 
an arrow. Inside this building are huge slabs of polished 
wood, stufifed animals, a fish hatchery and a large number of 
wood factory exhibits, such as basket making, etc. 

The Government building has brought almost all that it 
had at St. Louis and perhaps has added a little more, such 
as Alaskan products and things from the Philippines, 

We held in our hands one nugget which weighed 182 
ounces and was valued at $3,276.00. It is too bad we did not 
have room for it in our baggage. 

The life saving crew gave a successful imitation of bring- 
ing in a shipwrecked crew. Before closing to attend the per- 
formance of "Mrs Wiggs of the Cabbage Patch" I wish to 
copy a panel from the government building : 

"To the People of the Great West: Jefferson gave yo'i 
the country, Lewis and Clark showed you the way, the rest is 
your own course of empire. Honor the brave men who fore- 
saw your west. May the memory of their glorious achieve- 
ments be your precious heritage." 

September i/th. 

To-day we have stopped in our Nellie Bly race to enjoy a 
quiet day. 

We were fortunate in being able to listen to Washington 
Gladden this morning at the First Presbyterian Church. Large 
church that it was, it was packed with a congregation that 
seemed to drink in every word the speaker uttered. 

It is a fine thing to find in a new and growing city like 
this, where every thought seems to be to boom the city, that 
so large a number are thinking seriously about such important 
subjects as our relations to each other in the social scale, 
etc. 



10 America. 

There is no lawlesssness in this overcrowded city to com- 
pare with Chicago. ]\Ien are more in earnest and I only wish 
that this wave of unselfishness and good will to all would wash 
back to Chicago. 

Portland is a city of wonderful growth in vegetation. Every 
thing seems to thrive as though placed in a hot house. Rose 
bushes are everywhere. At each door step and lawn climbing 
roses, and all grow and bloom as I have never seen before. 
Perhaps so many flowers brings people into a purer and better 
plain than those of us who spend such toil on a few little 
flowers. 

Tomorrow we leave for Seattle by Northern Pacific. 

September i8th, 
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON. 

Our ride up here was one of the most picturesque we have 
had since leaving home, which is saying a good deal. 

/Vfter spending a morning in the shops of Portland, we 
took Northern Pacific at two o'clock. Riding again along the 
Columbia River still as beautiful and clear as before. 

As our train ran along beside the river directly back rose 
the high woody hills, covered with lofty firs, while still higher 
and crowning all, with glistening white peaks, were the great 
mountains which sat posing like dignified, bald-headed old 
gentlemen, not in the front row of the pit, but away up in a 
gallery all their own. 

Can you imagine a more beautiful picture than this as 
the evening sun darkened the valleys and foot hills, yet still 
threw a search-light glow on the peaks above. Mt. Hood, St. 
Helena and Rainier were all in full view through the clear 
air and only faded away when the light was gone. I thought 



America, 11 

the moon would again show them up, but it was not to be. 
So after a ride which was only interrupted by our engine 
breaking down we backed down into this noisy city of Seattle 
and are landed with a few of the Japanese plenipotentiaries 
in the Washington Hotel, which is on a high bluff overlooking 
all the surrounding country and bays. 

September 19TH. 

Seattle is not the quiet place Portland was. Everything 
seems confusion, rush and go, here. Possibly some of it comes 
from the tearing up of all streets preparatory to new pave- 
ment. Our hotel is on a bluff about 300 feet high. A 
theatre company, in order to put up a building, have literally 
carved away a full half block of this cliff for their building, 
a stupendous work for such an enterprise. 

The street railway company have combined with the city's 
improvement association to boom the city. Each day they send 
out two cars with guides to show you the beauty of the place. 

Certainly they do not have to mention the surrounding 
region with its pretty lakes and woody parks, but as for the 
city and its buildings they are yet as nothing, but they are 
trying hard to make it and now claim a population of 160,000. 

We have already visited our steamer which is to carry us 
to Japan, and she is certainly a monster, but to see her at 
her best is to take her out on the sea fighting the elements 
and then we may pass judgment. 



12 America. 

September 20th. 
ON BOARD THE STEAMER DAKOTA. 

To-day we have cast off all ties and as we look off from 
our ship we can just catch a last fleeting glimpse of the 
Olympic Mountains. 

Surely there is nothing so like human life as in putting 
out to sea, and Tennyson comes back, "May there be no 
moaning at the bar when I put out to sea." My last ex- 
periences of Seattle were not the kind to put a traveler in 
a tranquil state of mind. Up to an hour before the ship 
sailed my trunk shipped from Chicago had not been found. 
This may seem like a small matter, but all my precious little 
conveniences and clothes, which were to accompany me around 
the world, seemed gone. After purchasing an entirely new 
wardrobe, and giving up all hope, I found my trunk at the 
steamer. 

Among our fellow passengers are a large part of Baron 
Kamura's party and others from all over our own country, 
a total of about one hundred, a very congenial and delightful 
company. 

I will not attempt to describe our ship until a later day. 
She swarms with a host of obliging Chinese servants. 

As we left the wharf the missionarys sang "Pilot Me" in 
the cabin, the Japanese ashore shouted "Benzai" and above all 
a heart}' college cheer rang out. 

Slowly, without a motion till you looked ashore, we went 
out into the bay. All day our course was down the bay with 
a grand view of the mountains reaching up above the snow 
line. 

In the afternoon about four our pilot left us taking our 



America. 13 

last word back and we were cut off from the world for four- 
teen days. 

What things may happen in those days. We can only say, 
God keep our little ones. So the night closes in and we go 
quietly to bed in our big ship as comfortable as we were at 
home. 

September 2ISt. 

Weather cloudy and cool. Sea calm. Still in the Sound 
or rather Strait of Juande Fuca, which, an officer says, "we 
leave to-night." 

September 22nd. 

Sea still calm. Temperature between 50° and 60°. Bright 
and clear. Miles traveled to noon, 263. 

September 23RD. 

Weather still fair. Temperature lower, between 45° and 
60°. Meeting of the passengers held to elect entertainment 
committee. Very enthusiastic. Miles traveled to noon, 317. 

September 24TH. 

Weather clear and bright. To-day has been full of interest. 
Whales have been spouting in every direction with an occa- 
sional school of porpoises. 

Church services were held in the main saloon and were 
quite acceptable after such a lazy week. Noon found us 
another 337 miles along and still going well. As the afternoon 
wears away a storm is coming up in our face. 



14 America, 



September 25TH. 

To-day we find ourselves storm tossed and this great ship 
being tossed about as a Httle chip. All day long the storm 
lasted, driving great waves over the bow, but no one was lost 
and no damage done. 

One Chinaman died the night before and was deposited in 
the life boat, as it is against their religion to bury one at sea. 

We only made 242 miles to-day, which was on account of 
the storm. 

We go to our berths with the terrific seas still coming over 
our side. 

September 26th. 

Bright and clear. Temperature 45° to 50°. To-day we 
met our first accident. The electric steering gear was out of 
order and for two hours we simply floundered around in great 
circles, but at last were straightened out. 

I take this opportunity of describing our great ship. Her 
length is 630 feet, breadth 136 feet, and when fully mounted 
can carry 2,500 to 4,000 people of all classes. Through her 
smokestack one could drive a coach and four. 

Her main object is freight between America and the Orient. 
At present she is carrying 26,000 tons, mostly in locomotives 
and freight cars for the Japanese government, together with 
food products. 

This crude outline of this ship does not begin to describe 
her elegant furnishings. She cost $3,500,000 and nothing was 
spared in the way of conveniences for the first-classs passen- 
gers. Great, large staterooms, special large windows, private 
telephone service, electric heat and lights. In all a great hotel 
of the high sea. Her crew is entirely Chinese as well as 



America, 15 

stewards and cooks. No such servant was ever found before. 
So neat, quick, and so civil. Two hundred of them in all, 
a little colony by themselves. 

Among our passengers are many of the Secretaries of 
Baron Kamura, of the Peace Conference, together with Mr. 
Dennison, their American adviser. They are agreeable fellow 
passengers, but talk little English. They carry the Portsmouth 
treaty back to the Emperor. 

Most of the other hundred passengers are missionaries 
going back to their posts. A few business men and some 
pleasure seekers make up the rest. 

September 27TH and 28th. 

I have dated to-day's notes 27th and 28th as we must skip 
a day in our course westward. The new day begins at 180°. 
To-day was spent trying to get a glimpse of the Alutian 
Islands, but on account of the fog, was impossible. All that 
we could see was one little peak far out, the night before. 
Just a little hint to show us our earth was not all covered 
with water. As I write these notes a terrific storm is coming 
up. I trust it will do us no damage. 

September 29TH. 
Miles, 325. Weather, stormy. 

September 30TH. 

Miles, 256. 

Storm over. Still cold, about 50°. 



16 America. 



October ist. 

Church this A. M. Weather milder, about 65°. Calm sea. 
Distance run, 326 miles. 

October 2nd. 

We are beginning to get down into the Japan current and 
our heavy clothing will soon have to disappear. 

October 3RD. 

We had a disappointment in our run to-day and it is 
doubtful if we reach harbor Thursday or Friday. 

October 4th. 

Miles, 322. Weather very mild and calm. A good run and 
we are sure to arrive in Yokohama Thursday P. M. We ran 
through several schools of flying fish. 

October 5th. 

To-night finds our ship with anchor down and at rest from 
her long run. We sighted land in the early morning and about 
noon we entered Tokio Bay. All the rest of the run we were 
well in sight of the rough cliff outlining the shore. Number- 
less little fishing boats, or sampans, as they call them here, 
skim along beside, or else were sculled with large crooked oar 
from the rear. They say these poor fishermen spend their 
entire time on the water. No wonder they make good fighters 



Japan, 17 

on their battleships. We were guided through the mine fields 
and past the forts by another steamer and finally came to 
anchor off quarantine. Eight official looking doctors came 
aboard and after a careful inspection, aided with a few bottles 
of champagne, we were allowed to pass. 

There was quite a little excitement as the Peace Treaty 
with the envoys was putting off from the ship, A torpedo boat, 
whether by carelessness or design, smashed into the Peace 
Envoys' launch, knocking a big hole in her bow. A little more 
and the treaty would have been lost. One man was knocked 
overboard, and it is doubtful if he was rescued, though we 
saw him struggling in the water. 

About dark we were put ashore and after a struggle with 
ricksha men we were carted off to our hotel. 

The ricksha men are tough, wiry fellows, and have a gait 
peculiar to themselves. It is about like a dog trot, but it 
covers the ground. I will not attempt to descirbe the lantern- 
lit streets and the people until a later day. 

The Grand Hotel here is very modern and is about the 
same as some of our second class hotels, except the cooking, 
which is thoroughly up-to-date. There is one idea that strikes 
me as we land in our first Japanese city. Everything seems 
to smack of an imitation of American ideas, even the ricksha 
men try to beat you the same as the Chicago hackman, but it 
is better ; we get our experience early. 

October 6th. 

YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 

Our first sight-seeing day has been rather a dismal one, 
as there has been a constant downpour, but, withal, things seem 
to move along just as if the sun was bright. The people in 



18 Japan. 

the streets, in the shops and in the homes are all busy like a 
hill of ants. Each child, boy, girl and grownups, all striving 
as though their lives depended on their finishing their task 
within the shortest possible time ; yet it goes on forever, just 
the same. Our day was spent with a shopping trip through 
Benton Dora (the Wall Street of Yokohama) in the morn- 
ing. The afternoon a ride up to Noge Yama, a high hill 
which overlooks the city and harbor. It has a few temples 
on it, but they are not the best samples of either Buddha or 
Shinto temples, yet they give us our first insight in bowing 
down to heathen images. 

We have the pleasure of seeing a genuine drama later. 
Yokohama has one street on which its show houses stand, a 
regular Midway, or Pike, and is appropriately named Theatre 
Street. 

The theatre building, like all others, is low and dingy at 
the entrance. You leave shoes, umbrellas, etc., without a 
check, but always get them back. The admittance fee to 
Europeans is one yen (50 cents) which entitles you to a seat 
or cushion in a box. The box itself is nothing more or less 
than a small pen over the rail of which you climb to your 
cushion. 

The play is carried on with great gusto and very rapid 
gestures and movements. At the most pathetic scenes the 
audience seems to fairly go mad and shouts vigorously. As 
the end draws near the excitement reaches its height and large 
wads of paper are thrown at the hero and heroine. It is a 
continuous performance, yet one act is enough for us at a 
time. So home we trot again. 

With our nininbiki (2 men ricksha) we set out this morn- 
ing for a place in the country called Sugito. Our path or 

Une ran out under the high cliffs which surround Y out 

through the poorer districts into the green country sides. 
It was a very pleasing sight to see the rice and barley fields 



Japan. 19 

all growing in little patches each in different stages of ma- 
turity and like so many things Japanese, all so trim and neat. 

The woods on the hillsides were somewhat tropical with a 
scattered Palm tree here and there in the rhododendrons. 

Our road was made of gravel and answered fairly well to 
our own gravel roads. Every few feet we met a pilgrim for 

Y , or a farmer girl with a huge load of hay, or a cart 

drawn by a little scrubby horse which badly needed a hair 
cut. The path was lined here and there with little shops. 
Now you would see a naked blacksmith, again a barber, all 
steady at work, never stopping but for a glance at us "Foreign 
devils." 

Our first stop was at a tea house. It is hard to describe 
such a unique and pretty place. Several tea houses or sheds 
surrounded a little ornamental garden with the regulation 
stream of water, gold fish, etc. We were lead through this 
into a back tea house after depositing our shoes. We were 
seated at a tiny table and received our tea and cakes. 

The lady would not mention the price, but from the bow- 
ing and greetings which we received I am sure the ten cents 
sufficed. Going a little farther we had a wonderful panorama 
of the surrounding hills and then back again to town — a lovely 
trip. The afternoon was spent in a real ball game between 
Japanese and Americans to the Americans' disgrace. 

October 7th. 

A beautiful Sabbath day. The morning spent in writing 
and church. This afternoon we took a ride to what is claimed 

by guide books to be the one of most interest around Y . 

It is all so pretty it is not beyond mention, yet is not to be 
compared with our ride of yesterday. The road follows the 
shore out over the bluffs and down again through the rice 



20 Japan. 

fields, finally landing you at a temple and tea house, the pret- 
tiest part of which is a waterfall making a natural bath room 
for the worshippers. More walking and our day ends. 

October io, 1905. 

Our trip to-day was by rail to Kamakura, which is a sea- 
side resort for the settlement people of Yokohama. 

The chief points of interest according to guide books and 
other authorities are the Hachiman temple, which was being 
visited by some of the Emperor's 200 or 300 children at the 
same time we were, so it was a royal occasion. It is not 
really a royal temple, but was used by the Shoguns, or old 
style governors, and contains many relics dating back for 
hundreds of years. 

That for which Kamakura is most noted is the Daibutsu — 
a great Buddha image in the shape of a head made up of 
bronze plates all welded together. The eyes are made from 
gold, which measure 3 feet 11 inches in length, weighing 
over 30 pounds. It is a wonderful affair and would make a 
pretty garden piece for some rich American estate. 

After a lunch by the sea-shore we set out for the Island of 
Enoshima. The beauty of the place is its setting in the sea. 
The high cliff rising right out of the sea with a single path 
through Katase to it. It was not so much the beauty of the 
island as our grand view of Mount Fugi, which paid us for our 
long walk and climb. 

Then back again to Yokohama with a dozen gay native girls 
crowding us almost out of the car. 

October iith. 

To-day has been a day of shopping and a study of the real 
Yokohama. 



Japan. 21 

Yokohama is a city laid out for the foreigners, as it was 
nothing but a fishing village when Perry landed at Kanagawa 
bay, then the original treaty port, in the year 1854, but for 
diplomatic reasons the Japanese made Yokohama the open trade 
port. 

At the present time there are living in the settlement about 
1,800 British, 600 Americans, and the balance, about 2,000, 
of foreigners, while scattered around the city there are be- 
tween three and four hundred thousand Japanese and Chinese. 
The bay is fully protected by a huge breakwater where the 
largest ships are always safe. The great merchant vessels con- 
tinually coming and going making a pretty sight from the 
shore. Along the front of the city is the Bund, back of 
which the best hotels face out toward the bay. 

All streets of Y are very narrow compared to any 

American city, but as the main traffic is by ricksha they are 
quite large enough. 

The little shops which line the streets have a way of open- 
ing up their entire fronts so that a passer-by can easily see 
the entire stock from the street, and it makes an enticing 
display to newcomers. These shops, together with numerous 
tea houses, line the streets, the shop-keepers living over them. 
They are always open until evening and then all slides are 
closed tight, windows barred and every precaution taken to 
prevent robbers entering. At certain intervals a watchman 
goes about jingling some bells on a pole to let the burglars 
know he is about and otherwise keep things in order. Be- 
sides these watchmen they have a regular corps of policemen 
who have duties outside the watchmen. The finest residences 
are now on the high bluff to the south. They have beautiful 
grounds and their landscape architecture is wonderful even 
for Japan. Most of them are wealthy and can afford every 
luxury of this generous country. 

The Japanese themselves live in rather a crude fashion, a 



22 Japan, 

few cents being sufficient to support them. I believe the 
average wage earned by the middle class is about 50 sen (25 
cents gold). This was quite sufficient, until lately, when the 
war has raised the cost of living almost 100 per cent. 

A native man can buy a very respectable outfit for himself 
for about $2.00, which covers kimona, shoes, underbands, 
hat, etc. 

The coolies do the most degrading work, things that we 
would hesitate to make a horse do. They haul huge loads of 
coal and lumber on their carts, coal ships by hand, in fact 
do everything by hand where we use machinery. 

I cannot leave them for the day without saying something 
about their children which hobble about with the little wooden 
shoes, making a continual clatter on the paved streets. 

The boys wear their hair short, which is quite stiff and 
black. They always have one little round place on the back of 
the head shaved clean, just like the Jap dolls we have at home. 
They, like all the rest, wear very little underclothing except a 
small band, but are generally covered by their kimonas. The 
babes are strapped to the backs of children and grown people 
alike and seem to kind of naturally fit on there, so the burden 
bearer goes about as though unconscious of an}1:hing attached 
to them. 

The girls and women change very little except for the 
elaborate hair fixings of the women which has been so often 
described. 

The men, especially the coolie class, have their heads 
shaved close. 

Just one more thought and then I close. We are told that 
ninety per cent of the men of Japan went to bed drunk. This 
is not so. They do drink a great deal, but we have never 
seen a sign of intoxication anywhere. No drunkards and only 
a few beggars makes Japan a safe place for foreign travelers. 



Japan. 23 

October i2th. 
YOKOHAMA. 

As I write these lines the entire British Asiatic squadron 
lies at anchor in the harbor. Magnificent specimens of war 
craft. These, together with a large part of the Japanese 
navy, and last, if not first, our own ship Wisconsin, makes up 
a fleet which is probably as formidable as any now assembled 
in the world. This fleet makes an attraction which has turned 
to-day into a gay holiday for Yokohama. So many people 
gathered from the country side makes me wonder if it is not 
a part of the government scheme to turn the thoughts of the 
middle class from the Peace treaty to that of the British 
alliance, something of less importance to them. 

I am told that the government has not dared to give out the 
terms of the peace treaty as they have only recently quieted 
the people down, but it must be that a good many of them 
understand it. 

Such things as government diplomacy with the people 
seems out of the question with us, yet with such an almost 
uncontrollable herd of men and women, who seem to know 
little more than beasts, it is absolutely necessary. 

This afternoon we viewed the gaily decorated city from 
the temple of the hundred and one steps. It was a fine sight. 

October 13TH. 

TOKIO, JAPAN. 

To-day we have left the foreign settlement and have come 
up here to Tokio to see more of the real life of the Jap- 



24 Japan, 

anese. The ride up here by rail is mostly along the shore of 
the bay, and as their fast trains hardly exceed the speed of 
our freight trains it gives one a good opportunity to see the 
beautiful country so luxuriousl}' clothed by nature and now 
and then a glimpse of one of the gentrj^ not so well clothed. 

Tokio is en fete for the English sailors and the crowds 
with flags and lanterns turn this great city into a fair, and 
you would think the English very lords of creation, they being 
given privileges no other citizen can obtain. 

Tokio is so much larger and laid out on so much broader 
a scheme it is impossible to comprehend it from our first 
glimpse. Its beautiful parks, palaces and other attractive 
buildings put a charm to it which is far beyond Yokohama, 
yet it has its poor districts where men strive like poor beasts 
all day and live in places little better. 

As I write these notes I hear the sounds of the coolies 
loading the ships. It resembles very much the calls of a sick 
dog, yet they keep it up all day, so I know they are still 
alive. 

October 14TH. 
TOKIO. 

The city of Tokio (old name Yeddo) is built around the 
Imperial palace. The streets do not take any form or order, 
but seem to have adapted themselves with the gradual growth 
of the city around the deep moat which surrounds the palace 
grounds, a circumference of about one and a half miles. 

Besides the royal park within the palace grounds, Tokio 
has been generous to its people in the way of beautiful parks, 
such as Shiba, Uyena and Kudan, beautiful with rich foliage. 
The streets are fairly broad for an Eastern city, but as stated, 



Japan. 25 

do not follow any one direction. Someone has called Tokio 
the Venice of Japan, but there is no reason for it. There 
are many canals running through the city, but as means of 
travel they could never take the place of the many good 
streets. Freight is poled up and down these canals in clumsy 
boats and they also make good drains, but outside this they 
are not beautiful nor attractive in any way. 

Inside the parks are many temples and public buildings. 
The Shiba temple, or rather temples, for it is composed of 
eighteen diflferent buildings, is one of the first points we visited. 
The temples of Shiba are dedicated to illustrious Shoguns. 
The best one being that of the second Shogun, and the reason 
for it is probably because he oversaw the work before his 
death. The temples proper are large clumsy affairs with huge 
eaves that come over the little galleries on the outside. This 
roof is supported by huge pillars, highly ornamented, and 
generally covered on the inside of the building with beautiful 
lacquer. You leave your shoes at the entrance and first enter 
a large room called the prayer room, which contains many 
little lacquer boxes, inside of which are the Buddhist prayers 
chanted by the priests. All the ceilings are elaborately covered 
with carvings in gold and colored lacquers. Most of the 
figures are hideous dragons or some other imaginary animal. 
Leading from these prayer rooms is a hallway up to the shrines 
which are on raised platforms several feet higher than the 
main floor. Inside these shrines are gaudy furniture of every 
description and ornamentation, a kind of junk shop for old 
furniture. All the floors are finely lacquered, but the matting 
is only taken off on certain holidays. 

Back of the temples are the tombs of the Shoguns, while 
interspersed around the grounds are huge stone lanterns, many 
temples having several hundred. 

There are hundreds of temples around Japan similar to 
this one, but having seen one we have seen them all. 



26 Japan, 

I find I have failed to mention the ornamental trees and 
shrubbery which adds more beauty to these places than any- 
thing else. They have a way of cultivation which stunts a 
tree, some trees being hundreds of years old, yet not over a 
foot or two high. 

We visited the American legation which was a quiet 
place for us and is nothing to compare with the gorgeous 
British Lion. 

We then went to the school of foreign languages and 
saw the little wooden desks and benches where they some- 
times sit for five or six long hours at a time. 

Uyeno park museum was next on our list. This large 
building contained many things of interest to scholars in 
archaeology and natural history. 

I cannot forget the ordianry barn yard cocks which had tails 
fifteen feet long. After a pleasant stop at a nearby tea house 
we visited a small diabutsu statue, an industrial exhibition, and 
last the zoological gardens, which are fair, but not any larger 
than our own Lincoln Park, except in local specimens. 

The park itself is full of huge cherry trees, which must 
give a glorious burst of flowers in season. 

About noon we were a little shaken up by an earthquake 
which did no damage. 

October 15TH, 
YOKOHAMA. 

To-day has been a quiet one and as our return route from 
Tokio was the same there was little to add that was of interest. 
It seems a pity that the Japanese cannot find one day of rest 
each week, but every day is alike to them, one of busy toil. 
It is true they have their festivals and holidays, but that is 



Japan, 27 

not enough. A great portion of them are atheist, having 
drifted away from Shintoism and Buddhism and not being 
ready to take up Christianity it leaves them without a base. 
You would not blame these poor chiludren for not being Chris- 
tians if you knew their teachers over here. 

October i6th. 
YOKOHAMA. 

To-day has not been a pleasant day so we are preparing for 
our journey up towards Mount Fuji, which brings us nearer 
to the heart of the Japanese, and where we must fall back 
on our very brief vocabulary. 

I believe the Japanese language, as well as Chinese, is 
the most unpronounceable of any on earth. They ignore any 
set of rules and you simply have to learn to say each word 
by itself the same as they learn their characters, which means 
instead of a child learning 26 letters he must learn many 
thousand. 

October 17TH. 

MIYANOSHITA, JAPAN. 

If you should see a map of that part of Japan around 
Fuji mountain (the great sacred mountain of Japan) you 
would notice that the mountain itself has no immediate attached 
peak. She stands supreme, overtowering, overlooking and 
alone. The great watch tower of the Japanese, her head 
raised 12,365 feet above the sea. Never was there a peak 



28 Japan. 

more symmetrical from its base of dark green to the tip of 
pure white snow. The most beautiful mountain in all the 
world. 

Around Fuji within a distance of ten to twelve miles are a 
range of lesser peaks and hills like a setting of lesser stones 
around some great gem. In amongst these wooded hills, 
sparkling with crystal water falls, clear streams, and dense 
foliage, lies Miyanoshita. 

We left Yokohama by morning train and came as far as 
Kodzu, then a train or trolley brought us up through the 
little villages and foothills to Yumoti. After a brief Tiffin we 
took our rickshas and two men each for our trip up the valley. 
It is a long hard climb, for this place is about 1,400 feet above 
Kodzu. The road is pretty as it clings to the side of the 
hill twisting and turning ever upward till we land at Fujiya 
Hotel. One of the professors of Tokio had told me it was 
the best hotel in Japan. As far as service goes it is the best 
we have found, but it is not so much the hotel as its beau- 
tiful surroundings. The hotel sets up on a hillside, while high 
up back of it comes a great stream of water. This first goes 
into a large artificial natatorium ; from here the stream divides 
into two cascades pouring down over the rocks to a large 
basin just at the back of the hotel; from here it again goes 
on to a fountain in the pretty garden at the front. Each little 
pool, clear as air, swarms with gold fish. It is a poor soul 
whose eyes cannot respond to such an extravagant creation. 
No camera or brush can copy it. It is in the very atmosphere 
itself rising all around you from the great hills to the little 
flowers by the path. I pity the poor fools who can find pleas- 
ure in coming to such a place to drink whisky and play pool. 
"They have eyes, but they see not." Besides all this are the 
hot sulphur baths to drive away your body ills. It is by far 
the best place we have found in Japan. 



Japan, 29 



October i8th and iqth, 
MIYANOSHITA, JAPAN. 

Our stay in this little village of the hills has been prolonged 
by bad weather. Yesterday was too disagreeable to stir 
out of doors. This afternoon the rain stopped, so we set 
off on a tramp around the valley through muddy roads and 
paths. Such scenery well rewards a little dampness, and it 
is only afoot that one can appreciate such grandeur. A train 
is too swift for a good study. The streams around here which 
fling themselves in cascades and roaring rapids are not mere 
surface waters, but mostly heated sulphur water, which is 
found in places at almost boiling point. In such places as 
"Big Hell" the vegetation is scarce, but that is farther on. 
Our way up the valley was close beside the river, but coming 
back on the other side we had to climb up about a thousand 
feet above it. The path was dug out from a steep hill which 
made our view the more grand. We looked down towards 
the valley on what at first seemed to be a squirrel on a log, 
but later proved to be a man crossing a bridge, so far was he 
away. The guide books call it an hour and a quarter walk, 
but it was worth all the three that we spent on it. 

To-morrow we go on further into the mountains. 

October 2oth. 

KOWAKIDANI, JAPAN. 

This place is perhaps more properly known as Kojigoku 
or "Little Hell," but up to this hour the outside temperature 
represents anything but a warm place. The place itself is 



30 Japan. 

not even a hamlet, having nothing but two Japanese hotels 
which are noted for their hot baths. The mineral water is 
brought through bamboo pipes down the hill where it is cooled 
down to a temperature of about 105° and then used for the 
baths. This is really very hot, but for some reason it acts 
contrary to all rules of health. There is nothing weakening 
about it ; in fact, I found it rather stimulating. After coming 
out of the bath you put on your Japanese clothes, which con- 
sists of a cotton kimona, and sit around as comfortable as 
though you had on your winter overcoat. 

The hotel is hardly patronized by Europeans, about one 
or two a month, but we have little trouble in making known 
our wants. 

October 2ist. 
KOWAKIDANI. 

To-day for the first time in four days it has stopped 
raining. We push back the slides of our little paper house 
and there down before us stretches the valley for twenty miles, 
and ever the water falls and rivulets play as a perfect orchestra 
to this grand stage. 

Our morning trip is to Ojigoku or "Big Hell." The place 
is rather high up, but is as near to the real place as I ever 
care to be. There are many sizzling springs which pour out 
boiling water and steam, and in places the rocks themselves are 
so very hot it would seem as though they would melt. It is 
dangerous to leave your guide, for a number have already lost 
their lives in the hot slime. The Maker has put a thin crust on 
our earth in some places, and this is one. I wonder if the fre- 
quent small earthquakes which we have do not have some con- 
nection with this region. This afternoon I climbed high 



Japan. 31 

up one of the hills. What a fine view I had. On one side 
I looked way out over to the ocean breaking on the shore; 
the other way clear up over the hills to Fuji, a distance each 
direction of thirty miles. Down in the valley were the houses 
and people like little insects crawling about. How small are 
we in such a universe. 

October 22Nd. 

KOWAKIDANI. 

Sunday and no church. 

We took horse back and ricksha to Hakone Lake which 
is set into the hills like a sapphire. It is about 2,400 feet 
above the sea and is known as one of Japan's prime beauties. 
My supply of adjectives have all been worn out, and I can 
simply say it belongs in this charming region. 

Fuji shows up back of it and sometimes reflects her face 
in its clear water. 

My little long-haired pony allows me to snap every pretty 
scene and after a light tiffin we are back home again to our 
hot baths and charming girls. 

October 23RD. 
YOKOHAMA. 

To-day has been a wonderful one for travel. We left our 
mountain hotel bright and early. My little horse of the day 

before carrying me. N rides in a chair borne by four 

stalwart coolies and one other to carry our bag, makes quite 



32 Japan, 

a caravan as we trot up out of the valley. Back over the road 
of yesterday to Hakone, then leaving the good road we take 
a little mountain path for ten miles. Sometimes up through 
the brush to the height of a thousand feet, now bending back 
and forth on some ridge, always up and down, I have read 
Stewart White's book "The Mountain" and how the western 
mustang jumps from rock to rock where it would seem im- 
possible to go, but I defy any American mustang to excel in 
tricks of mountain climbing of my little Japanese mare. Often 
she had to literally stand on her hind feet and place her front 
a good six feet ahead to get her footing. Never a slip or a 
stumble, for if once she struck a loose stone it might have 
turned her and me a thousand feet over the cliffs. It made 
me proud of her before the day was done, really the first 
Japanese maiden I have learned to love. It was after three 
when we struck Atami by the sea and they told us there was 
no way out, but we at last hired a special car on the railroad. 
It is such a queer railroad, I cannot help pausing to describe 
it. There are little cars with two seats just large enough 
for four people. The motive power is three stalwart coolies 
who run along beside the car to keep it in motion. Frequently 
we would come to a down grade and then all slide on a wild 
"chute the chutes." A little horn warned the trespassers of our 
coming, but once a poor woodman was hauling some sticks on 
the road when we crashed into him knocking me to the bottom 
of the car. We jumped out to find one of the men was badly 
laid out. I administered a little whisky to him, which brought 
him back to life, for which they all seemed quite grateful to 
us. With our smashed car we again proceeded on our wild 
journey. After a hurried ricksha ride to Kodzu, where we 
took our first meal consisting of ham sandwiches, we caught 
the late train for Yokohama, arriving once more in comfort 
and civilization. It was a hard one day's trip, but was full 
of interest and excitement from start to finish. 



Japan, 33 

October 24TH. 

YOKOHAMA. 

It has been a day of rest after our strenuous jaunts of yes- 
terday. Time to read and re-read the good messages from 
home. These bright pages that come are worth more than 
their senders can reahze to us exiles, 8,000 miles from home. 

October 25TH. 

TOKIO. 

Back again in Tokio. We find that owing to the reception 
given to Admiral Togo and other gallant tars the town is 
rather crowded. These good natured officers deserve all the 
praise and honor that can be given them. 

They have a peculiar custom over here of honoring their 
dead soldiers and sailors. When they have met death through 
some gallant act for their country they are promoted, some- 
times several ranks above the position they held before death. 
Too bad they cannot enjoy the glory, but they probably would 
be a long time getting it if they lived. 

October 26th. 

TOKIO. 

In my notes of the last few days I have said nothing of the 
doings of the Japanese. These are wonderful days for them. 
The "little boy" has risen up from his victory over the big 



34 Japak. 

bully and is throwing out his chest to the world to say "See 
what I have done." Great have been their victories, now great 
their rejoicing. 

To-day there has hardly been a woodshed or hut of any 
kind in Tokio but what is gay with flags, streamers and lan- 
terns. Great immense arches span the streets. Fire works 
are going off in the parks. Marching bands of citizen's chil- 
dren with music. All hailing with one loud Benzai to Togo, 
his brave sailors and a few straggling companies of infantry 
that have returned from the front. Like Dewey at Manila, 
Togo is this country's pride. 

The low murmurs of the lower classes at the Peace Treaty 
have been forgotten. 

Britannia is on hand to pat the proud Japs on the back 
with her great naval fleet, but she needs no assistance in 
that line. Japan knows how to boast as well as to fight. 

On Monday last the Emperor witnessed a grand naval 
review in Yokohama harbor composed of almost the entire 
Japanese navy, about 150 vessels, including a large number 
captured and refloated ones of Russia. I did not see the 
review, but saw the vessels, and it was surely a fleet fit for 
anything. Away inside all the rest, with her white and yellow 
showing above all, was our gallant "Wisconsin." 

To-day was spent at the American legation and Kwannon 
Temple. The park which surrounds the temple is given up to 
sports for the lower classes. A gay place for them during 
these festivities. 

October 27TH. 
NIKKO, JAPAN. 

All guide books of Japan start their description of Nikko 
by saying "Nikko's is a double glory — a glory of nature and 
a glory of art." The glory of nature is all here, but that of 




KIRIFURI NO TAKI 
MIST FALLING CASCADE NEAR NIKKO, JAPAN. 



Japan. 35 

art is yet to be seen. The railroad from Uyeno station up here 
runs through a rather monotonous agricultural district until 
reaching the branch line which runs up into the mountains. 
Here you find hills and waterways such as we saw at Hakone, 
and quite as pretty. Close alongside the railroad is a road 
built in the 17th century for the pilgrims to Nikko from the 
southern part of Japan. The road itself is quite ordinary, 
but for many miles on each side are the giant cryptomerian 
trees making a beautiful path where one should always find 
his way. They have several fur shops here which offer excep- 
tional bargains in their line. Furs can be bought for about half 
what they are in the United States. Besides these are the 
many curio shops to tempt the travelers, 

October 28th. 

NIKKO. 

To-day we have seen that which has for so long made 
Nikko a place of interest as well for foreigners as Japanese. 
The great Temples, Shrines, and all the other paraphernalia 
that goes with them. Even the crafty priests who delight to 
see the good foreigners' shekels jingling on the shrines. 

It does not seem possible that they can take their religion 
seriously when they will not only show you into all their sacred 
places, but will even go through some of their religious forms 
for money. 

The first temple, and the largest, is the Sanbutso-do, "the 
Hall of the Three Gilted Buddhas." Its general appearance 
is quite similar to the Shiba temple, formerly described, except 
for its hugeness. Close to this is the great gong which tolls 
the hours, also the bronze column to keep away evil influences. 
The temple of Futara and the mausoleum of lemitsu are the 



36 Japan. 

most lavish as far as their decorations are concerned. To 
describe their art is to simply say they are a conglomerate mass 
of grotesque images and animals, together with some really 
artistic lacquer panels. They are all done so wonderfully 
and with so much care that one cannot help but admire them. 
The mausoleum of Jeyasu is far superior to that of lemitsu, 
although lemitsu (the grandson) was head and shoulders 
over his ancestor. 

This temple sight-seeing is something Hke the cathedrals. 
If you are interested and have studied about them you will 
have lots to enjoy, but the splendor of Nikko to me is 
entirely of nature. Just at present quite a few of the temples 
are being relacquered and overhauled which does not put 
them in a good light, (This is necessary every twenty years.) 

Our way this afternoon was over rather rough ground. 
In some places it was necessary to carry the ricksha around 
huge boulders. It was to the cascade of Kirifuri, a beautiful 
body of clear water with a drop of sixty feet. Well worth 
the rough trip, 

October 29TH. 

NIKKO. 

The Japanese say you must not use the word "Kekko" 
(magnificent) until you have seen Nikko, but the word more 
properly belongs to Lake Chuzenji than Nikko. Up through 
the water courses which ever roar in anger at man's intru- 
sion; up stony cliffs all for eight miles. It is a hard ride for 
a pony, but harder for the rickshas. This is almost the 
wildest part of Japan. There is game of all kinds in the 
woods, in,cluding many huge monkeys. It is for this reason 
that furs are so cheap. But it was the lake we came to see 
and not the monkeys — lucky for us. As usual, the lake was 



Japan. 37 

set in between the high hills as clear and dark a blue as I ever 
saw. Around its shores reaching up on the hillside is the 
gorgeous foliage. More beautiful now with its autumn colors 
than at any other time of the year. We are more than lucky 
to be here at just this season ; not too cold, yet cold enough to 
paint the foliage as no man can paint, or ever will paint. 

The lake is 4,375 feet above the sea, a little above the 
common lakes. Along the road are many tea houses where 
the coolie boys can rest as well as we. It is quite agreeable 
to stop after an hour or so of such rough voyaging. But 
grand sights demand some exertion and who counts the cost 
when he sees Lake Chuzenji. 

October 30TH. 
NIKKO. 

The readers of these pages may have grown tired of the 
lavish enthusiasm which I have felt over these natural beau- 
ties of this country. In many ways nature is more generous 
to Japan than America; yet, perhaps, if we would stop a 
little in our mad rush we would see many more beauties 
that we had passed by every day without a thought. Yet 
no one can be disappointed who comes looking for them here, 
even the people and children add a certain charm to each 
new scene, and I can only hope that those who read these 
lines will some day see for themselves. 

We went to a waterfall this afternoon (Urami) and it 
is as beautiful as the rest. They call it an hour's walk out, 
but it is a good four miles, all up hill, and four miles anyway 
is too much for us frail creatures. 

To-morrow we are off for the wilderness and shall miss 
our good hotels. 



38 Japan. 

October 31ST. 
ASHIO, JAPAN. 

I am writing this letter on a little table just six inches 
from the floor, beside this there is a charcoal brazer and 
tea-pot. This is all the furniture of our present bed-room, 
dining-room and parlor. Since I have started to write they 
have produced from some mysterious corner about twenty 
or thirty quilts which they have laid on the floor making 
our two beds. With the usual paper slides around us this 
makes up our Japanese room for the night as near their mode 
of living as we expect to enjoy. 

This morning with ricksha and pony (our usual mountain 
conveyances) we climbed up the valley from Nikko through 
Hoso-o-Pass (4,100 feet) striking the headwaters of the 
Watarase-gawa. The large copper mines which are at Ashio, 
although a private company, have been granted government 
concessions by which they control this entire region. Each 
way stretches huge cables, small tram tracks and buildings. 
They run from Nikko clear down the valley of the Watarase- 
gawa. In some places they have cleared the whole mountain 
side of trees for charcoal. But nature will assert itself and 
beautiful trees and water falls will keep safe for some time 
the pleasure of the nature lover. 

We were fortunate in being able to go through the main 
works of Ashio. To show you what a gigantic enterprise it 
is, I would note that they employ about 20,000 people in 
the three mines. They have a large hospital, school, amuse- 
ment hall, etc. In fact, they virtually control the entire 
region. 

We followed the copper from the place where the crude 
rock was brought out of the mine until the pure burning 



Japan. 39 

liquid was poured forth in fiery torrents into the moulds. A 
wonderful process. They use a large number of modern 
machines in their washing, etc., but still find human hands 
cheaper in many places than machines. 

In all these mines produce about 7,000 tons a year and 
are the largest in the East. 

My maid and hot bath await me, so I close these lines to 
follow her to the common tub. 

November ist. 

IKAO, JAPAN. 

We are fortunate in having weather that is clear during 
this rough mountain voyage, and with a good early start we 
shake off the hundreds of little folk who have gathered 
around to see such curious people from another world. Again 
down the valley of the Watarase-gawa, which we follow all 
day. It is such a wonderfully wild and noisy stream. Our 
road winding over it shows its every bend and every fall which 
mingles with dashing spray amongst the huge rocks. More 
beautiful from our road as the trees fringe a net work of 
lace on each side. And such trees with the gold and crimson 
leaves of fall. But enough said. With a last mad rush 
of 25^ miles in twenty minutes which nearly killed our poor 
coolies we reached Omawa in time to catch the train for 
Mayebashi. 

Here we came into rather too close a touch with the 
common people when we entered a little tram car which was 
packed, for our journey of over two hours. Not at all 
pleasant. The Japanese have a proverb "that you must not 
see, hear, nor smell." They put this in three monkeys on 
the temples at Nikko and elsewhere. I sometimes think the 



40 Japan. 

saying was intended for foreigners as the Japanese smells 
are the worst I have ever come across. As we journey along 
up from Shibakawa by ricksha in the cool, dark night to 
this semi Japanese hotel, I must tell of another one of their 
peculiarities. They have no fear of snakes, bugs, rats or 
anything like that which we abhor. It must be that having 
so many of these things around them they become accus- 
tomed to them the same as their frightful smells. 

About nine o'clock we reached here, tired and very 
hungry, having lost the scenery coming up but shall regain 
it on going down. 

IKAO is pronounced so peculiar I put down, A'cow. 

November 2nd. 

IKAO. 

It has been a rather restful day with short jaunts in the 
woody hills. Ikao is noted for its hot baths, like Myanoshita, 
yet I believe the water has better properties than there. This 
is not the right season, but in summer these great barn like 
hotels are full of people. They pour up to these mountains 
to cool off, the same as we go to our northern resorts. 

As the opening of the Japanese story Namiko, though 
somewhat sentimental, gives the same picture we gaze out 
upon, I cannot help but copy it. 

"In the evening of that day the far away hills of Nikko 
and Ashio and those on the borders of Echigo, as well as the 
nearer peaks of Ooko Komochi and Akogai were glorious in 
the rays of the sinking sun. Even the cawing of the crows fly- 
ing from a tree just beneath seemed to be toned with gold as 
two fragments of cloud floated out from behind Akagi. The 
downy clouds not larger than could be embraced with both 



Japan. 41 

arms, slowly separated from the summit and glittering like two 
golden butterflies sailed on side by side toward Ashio through 
the boundless mid air. Presently the hills and skies were 
shrouded in darkness." 

November 3RD. 

TOKIO. 

This was the Emperor's birthday and is as much a national 
holiday as our Fourth of July. If the people do not have a 
deep and sincere religious feeling they have a reverence of 
their emperor and military heroes to take the place of it, and 
in whom they worship as a very god. You speak to a Japanese 
of his Emperor and he is at once all attention, and smiles 
with much pride as he talks of him. 

To-day has been spent enroute. A six mile walk to Shiba- 
kawa Tram then Mayebashi and a five hours' railway journey 
landed us again in Tokiio. The trains are very slow; they do 
not average eighteen miles an hour. 

November 4th. 

TOKIO AND YOKOHAMA. 

Tokio has wept all day which made sight seeing out of the 
question if we had been in a mood. The guide book recom- 
mends Kwankoba bazaar, which is like recommending a 
stranger to our Fair store. Things are very cheap, even at 
the price to us. 

We took train at Shinbashi and came flying to Yokohama 
where we found a nice lot of letters. 



42 Japan. 

November 5th. 
YOYOHAMA. 

Back in our old hotel, seems somewhat homelike, yet there 
is "no place like home." Church and a quiet day. Witnessed 
a rowing contest on the Bund between Japanese men-of-war 
boats. They row like farmers, but sculling is more in their 
line. 

Regret missing the reception given Admiral Togo by Sec- 
retary Griscom. 

November 6th. 

YOKOHAMA. 

This has been a day of rest, indeed, and no pleasanter 
sights than the clean streets and pretty harbor of Yokohama 
to look at. There is scarcely an hour when some great ocean 
vessel is not coming or going out on their long journeys to 
the ports of the world. Great huge monsters that carry tons 
of freight and hundreds of people. 

November 7th. 

YOKOHAMA. 

It has been quite cool lately and frosts have come 30 days 
earlier than usual, which is rather hard on the poor farmers. 
This afternoon we went through the caves of Totsuka, a 
little outside of the city. They are cut out of the soft rock 
and run for long distances under a bluff. 



Japan. 43 

Our guide, a boy about 3 feet high, with his little lantern, 
showed us all the wonderful carvings with which the walls 
are lined, explaining at the same time, in a loud voice, the 
meaning of each, but as his language was a little beyond us 
it was more an amusement than an education. The soldiers 
are being brought back by the train loads and do not look as 
though they had suffered any great hardships. 

November 8th. 

YOKOHAMA. 

Shopping and calling. We are fast becoming acquainted 
with the city with its intricate lanes and streets- Very few 
streets have sidewalks, so it is the universal custom to walk 
in the street, 

November qth. 

YOKOHAMA. 

These fall days are so much like our Indian Summer — cool 
nights and bright days. The Japanese have begun to wear 
their thick, padded kimonas, and hug around their little char- 
coal brazers. They would all die if the weather should ever 
take a turn such as we have at home. 

November ioth. 

YOKOHAMA. 

This afternoon after striking a bargain with the ricksha 
men we went off along the sea-shore. The coolie class have 



44 Japan. 

no scruples to cheat }^ou if they can, and it is a good game 
to find foreigners who know Httle of their language and little 
of their ways and then calmly "do them." I am thankful that 
I have passed through the tenderfoot stage so successfully 
and that I can now lend a helping hand or word for my 
friends. A coolie values one yen which he beats you out of 
more than ten he really earns. 

November iith. 
YOKOHAMA. 

This was Race Day, not human race, but horse race. All 
the gay folk of the settlement were there and a large assort- 
ment of natives in the back ground, or rather flocked together 
on the hillside. Just to see a lot of little ponies gallop carefully 
around a big track. It takes so little to amuse, yet the bet- 
ting adds some spice and gives the bookkeepers enough to 
buy as many bottles of champagne as their foolish heads will 
stand. 

The rickshas go flying by on a certain street the same as the 
handsome carriages used to prance down Michigan Avenue 
on Derby Day. 

As we came along back a ricksha man knocked a small 
boy down and partly ran over him. He (the boy) cried, 
more from fright than hurt, whereupon his mother viciously 
slapped him over the head, which is quite contrary to some 
American mothers or grandmothers, I am thankful to say. 
Perhaps such treatment makes such good soldiers of them. So 
many of the poor little creatures have such sores, or rather a 
kind of eczema, that they are not nice to look at and which 
leaves them in after life with some weakness of eyes or limbs. 



Japan. 45 

Science must yet penetrate into the poorer classes of Japan 
before they are fit for the struggles of life. 

November I2th. 

YOKOHAMA. 

As everything is English here in the settlement the 
churches likewise so (and rather high). It is peculiar to hear 
the wedding bans read out and it seems would be embarrass- 
ing to a blushing bride if any one should make a stir in church. 
But they are probably sure of their ground after they have 
been read three times. 

November 13TH and 14TH. 

YOKOHAMA. 

To-day and yesterday the Russian prisoners are being put 
on board the transport which is to carry them home. A little 
over two thousand, which is a small part of the prisoners held 
by Japan, and yet a smaller part of that great army which was 
to drive out the Japanese from Manchuria, out of Korea, sweep 
them from the sea and march a victorious and triumphant army 
"to eat Christmas dinner in Tokio." Yet what a contrast. 
Here are huddled a lot of rough, ragged men, with sad faces, 
surrounded by the jeering, ever smiling Japs. They are the 
flotsam which has been cast aside from that torrent of war- 
fare, to lie idly by while their brothers dash on, some to death 
and other to float on to pools of quietude. And to carry the 
figure a little farther, there are few amongst them who would 
feign mingle again with that dash and roar which is being 
enacted at home. Out of the 70,000 prisoners held by Japan 



46 Japan. 

12,000 have applied for citizenship to this country. What 
other nation would have sons on a foreign soil who would 
lose their love of country in such a fashion. I hope America 
never. 

The officers, who still have their bright uniforms and gild- 
ed trappings, are as proud as ever. Yet in even them ignor- 
ance shows in their faces as well as the common soldier. 
The great question has been asked so often "How did the 
Russians come to be beaten?" and though my answer may be 
plagiary on some one I put it down without a copy before me, 

Japan was thoroughly prepared in maps, munitions and 
supplies. She was within such convenient distance of her base. 
She had an army of men who were trained to the minute, and 
last, if not first, her men and officers were as loyal to their 
emperor and mother country as it is ever possible for a son to 
be to a mother. I speak only from Japan's side, and in almost 
all of these things was Russia lacking. So she (Russia) went 
down and out so far as her control in the East is concerned. 

I was able to snap a few of the prisoners with my camera, 
which I trust will prove what I say. 

This afternoon we again rode out to the Plains of Heaven 
and back again to our home mail. 

The ship Dakota, which brought us over, is now here on 
her homeward journey. Question: Shall we go back with 
her? 

November 15TH. 

YOKOHAMA. 

I walked out along the shores of Mississippi Bay to the 
place where Perry landed. It is wonderful how many people 
are engaged in fishing. The boats with their nets strung up 
over the mast to dry line the shore for a mile or so. 



Japan. 47 

Going out on to the shore to gather shells, I walked through 
a little graveyard. You wonder how they can put so many 
bodies in such a small space, but it is a part of their Buddhist 
religion to bury the body sitting, or with the knees drawn up 
close to the breast and the head pushed forward as near as 
possible to the position of the infant before birth. In this way 
they can make over two graves where we would have one. 

November i6th. 
YOKOHAMA. 

We climbed the hill outside the town which commands 
Tokio Bay towards the Pacific, and for this reason must be 
one of the points of strategy in the Japanese army, which are 
quite numerous. 

We watched the ship Dakota for an hour or two after she 
had sailed. We shall miss some of our friends who came over 
with us, especially the James party, who is vice president of the 
company. 

Our invitation to the Imperial garden party has arrived. It 
begins like this : "You are commanded by the Emperor and 
Empress to attend, etc." So if we should disobey the orders 
of such a high court we would probably have our heads cut 
off. Such is the Imperial subpoena and we shall obey. 

November 17TH. 

YOKOHAMA. 

The day of the garden party has arrived so long awaited 
by us and others like us, who are to push on their journey. 
For nine years the secluded spot (the palace grounds of Tokio) 



48 Japan. 

have been thrown open to a select number each year, but to-day 
of all days, it pours and no garden party. Hundreds of bottles 
of champagne iced and ready to serve, hundreds of beautiful 
gowns, hundreds of visitors looking forward to a royal audi- 
ence; all the beautiful flowers and everything is spoiled. As 
a consolation we dine with our minister, Mr. and Mrs. Griscom, 
who is to sail for home the 19th. He is a very young man for 
so important a position, about 35 years, but has a very able 
corps around him, and from all accounts fills his position with 
tact and ability. It seems strange that a great government like 
ours cannot give its ministers a decent salary. They all spend 
much more than their salary, and sometimes twice as much. 
The more one sees of our foreign policy the weaker we seem, 
more especially when we match ourselves with England, who 
controls as she will here in Japan, and I feel sure we will regret 
it some day ; but, on the other hand, our own resources are so 
large and require such time for development. The point is, 
we opened this country to foreign trade, now why do we not 
get the lion's share ? But we do not. 

November i8th. 

YOKOHAMA. 

Our invitations to the garden party allow us to go through 
the grounds. So our way lies up to Tokio across the city, and 
with our little red cards we pass through the carefully guarded 
gate and so on through all the immense grounds, with a soldier 
standing at salute every few feet. The grounds themselves 
are very beautiful and extensive, but are not so extraordinary 
unless it be in the care which is shown on them. They are 
what you might call the artificial natural landscape gardening, 
if you can imagine what that is, and which is truly character- 
istic of the Japanese. Here and there a little lake or streamlet 



Japan. 49 

set round with trees and shrubbery. The path winds through 
rocky glens, over bridges and beside little tea houses, all in a 
very artistic manner. The chrysanthemums, which the poor 
gardeners have been sitting up nights with and watching with 
such care, are scattered around in different places throughout 
the grounds. They are placed or banked in rows under screens 
or sheds, each flower or bed as symmetrical and evenly grown 
like a regiment of soldiers in line. They had some wonderful 
specimens. One plant carried 983 blossoms and was made to 
take the shape of a huge toad stool, being fourteen feet across 
and half as many deep. 

There are many other shapes with large numbers of blos- 
soms. Besides this was some beautiful specimens of grafting 
plants growing a dozen different kinds of flowers and as many 
colors, from the size of a little daisy to the huge cabbage heads. 

A large number of the nobility were there, but we were 
unable to recognize them, except Admiral Togo, who came out 
as we went in. The Imperial Court always appear in Euro- 
pean dress, but very few of Japanese outside the army and 
navy wore anything different than they always do. 

Back to Yokohama and now a night trip to Kobe. 

November 19TH. 
KOBE, JAPAN. 

Our sleeping compartment of last night was not as roomy 
as we have at home, yet the berths were more comfortable. 
There are a dozen compartments opening up from a little aisle 
which may be made into four berths running across the car. 
Although we engaged our berths three days ahead we found 
them sold. A kind American gave N. his, and a Japanese 
count, after learning of our "distinguished" acquaintance with 
our minister, etc., insisted on our taking his berth without 



50 Japan. 

compensation. With the electric Hght keeping careful guide 
over my eyes, they did not find rest till early morn. About 
one o'clock we stopped and were serenaded by a chorus of girls, 
or rather, I believe, the count was. 

The girls are trained to sing together in school, and al- 
though we could not understand the words, the music sounded 
very beautiful out in the night. 

Kobe is a great shipping port with little of interest outside 
its trading enterprises. 

The town has a small plague which has sprung up amongst 
the lower classes, so you smell their strong disinfectants every- 
where. 

November 20th. 

KOBE. 

Went to visit the Diabutsu at Hyogo, which is south, adja- 
cent to Kobe. The day was evidently bargain day, for street 
and shop were crowded. The guide mentions as one of the 
sights of Kobe the Nunobiki water-fall, but although the fall 
is all there, there is little water above and none below. 

November 2ist. 

KOBE. 

We climbed up back of the foreign settlement, amongst a 
grove of cryptomerias, looked down on the whole city and 
sea port. Kobe, like so many of their coast towns, is pushed 
out close to the ocean by the high hills or mountains. The 
guide book does not mention this particular spot, but it is the 
most attractive view and place around here. 



Japan. 51 



November 22nd. 

TAKAHARA, JAPAN. 

Having just returned from the police station, I am not in 
a very amiable mood to write these notes, yet it is an experience 
which belongs to our trip. We have been told so much of the 
beauties of the Inland Sea and of the impossibility of seeing 
from the large steamers, that we decided to take a small coast- 
ing steamer entirely Japanese. So with well provisioned 
basket we set out last evening. The traveling was much better 
than on the sleeping car and as clean as any one would want. 
The boat traveled close up to the shore, which is as beautiful 
as can be. Great peaks run close to the sandy beach, little 
islands dotting out here and there, while the white sails against 
the dark blue water made as pretty a picture as one would wish 
to see. About lo o'clock we were landed in sampans at Taka- 
hara port. Having nothing to do but see the sights and two 
hours to await the return boat, we set out to see the sights 
and take a few pictures. We had not gone far and had taken 
two very ordinary views when we were overtaken by a common 
policeman who commanded that we accompany him back to 
town and there await his superior officer. His superior officer 
arrived, who explained, by signs, our camera was the mischief. 
We tore our films out, but that would not do. After two or 
three other high moguls had arrived, and we had seen our 
steamer come and go, we were hauled off to the high prefec- 
ture of police, put in a room to await our examination. It was 
anything but an agreeable situation, as there was only one who 
could speak English at all, and he very little. We were put 
through our catechism from "A" to "Z," and after it was all 
over I doubt if they knew very much, but what seemed to puz- 
zle them most was that they could not see the pictures on the 



52 Japan. 

undeveloped films. At last we were let go and are landed here 
in a Japanese inn to await our steamer of to-morrow. Some 
people would make a fuss about this, but as the inconvenience 
is small, we will let it pass. But it seems fooHsh, with all our 
royal permits, tickets, etc., that they should take us for spies, 
I only wish I had the head man home for about five minutes. 

November 23RD. 

ON BOARD S. S. "KANAGAWA MARU." 

We have realized more than before that if you would see 
to the heart the great natural beauties of Japan, you must spend 
considerable energy and be prepared to undergo a good many 
annoyances and inconveniences, more especially as you are 
thrown amongst strangers who know less of English than you 
do of Japanese. 

From the time a child is six until he is ten, he is sent under 
compulsion to the common school, where he is taught the char- 
acters, reading, writing, a little geography and a little arith- 
metic. Few ever advance beyond this line. They have nor- 
mal schools where a little English is taught, history and a 
more finished education, but this is not compulsory, and as 
there is a fee of about 20 cents a month the great horde of 
people never reach that stage. 

Last night after I finished my notes we were visited by a 
large delegation, ten of whom were school teachers in the 
primary schools, and some of whom spoke a little English. 

Picture, if you can, a room whose walls were mostly paper 
slides, matting on the floor, a few stray cushions, we kneeling 
to a row of twelve Japanese. Our hostess slipping around 
with her tea-pot, we telling of our curious customs, showing 
our strange utensils of toilet and drawing pictures of explana- 



Japan. 53 

tion through a whole evening. A very interesting and amus- 
ing evening. 

I will not tire you with an account of seeing the town. 
Suffice it to say, that Takahara is a little washed-out town by 
the sea, and, like some fruit upon a tree, more attractive there 
than when you have it in hand. But I should not condemn it 
as a place of economy, for our entire bill for board, lodging 
and entertainment was 50 cents for one whole day. I was 
ashamed to pay the bill and insisted on doubling. 

My beginning of this day has been slightly side-tracked, 
so I go back to that rather discouraging part, or rather place, 
where we shook ofif the dust of that town and climbed on board 
of a very small, dirty and crowded steamer, but the sun shines 
bright and if you can lose yourself amongst the ever changing 
hills and islands you are safe. There is one picture which 
sprang up at sunset that I do not think I shall ever forget. I 
paint it as best I can. A foreground of a sparkling golden 
sea, scattered with a few white sails, high up back from this 
sea stand the ever frowning rugged cliffs, a sky whose every 
cloud is put and shaped as though our Great Almighty Artist 
had planned the scene and in just a little cleft of the hills 
rested the giant sun, whose golden gleams stretched out to 
every limit of the horizon like mighty arms stretched over to 
protect the people of Nippon, 

Such a sunset Turner never dreamt of, and much less, ever 
painted. It was worth the whole trip. 

Our beds were already filled, so we made the best of it 
trying to lie on a bench about six inches wide in a dirty mess 
room, with our friends, the roaches, calling hourly. 



"And sleep stole on 

As sleep will do 
When hearts are light 
And lives are new." 



54 Japan. 

November 24TH. 
OSAKA, JAPAN. 

We landed at Osaka, which is laid out on a plan much like 
London in the respect that it is rather large, its finest buildings 
(which are the most modern we have seen in Japan) lie close 
along the river, which, like the Thames, ever rises and falls to 
the level of the sea tides. 

It is an hour's ride from Osaka to Kyoto, which is another 
large city. Before taking you into the city I stop to correct 
an idea regarding the farming which I have written of before. 

They do use plows and a single bull around here for culti- 
vating the ground, but it is the first place I have seen any 
beast of burden in the field (beside the women). 

Osaka is in an uproar of excitement, for all the war heroes 
are about to gather around to hear their glories sung amidst 
banners and lanterns and to march beneath huge evergreen 
arches. All this for having fought and won. 

The common people work so hard to make a show for just 
one day. It makes you wonder why, until you know them. 
It is their nature to show their appreciation in this way, and 
as I said before, the war heroes are their gods. 

Osaka has large cloisomie shops and factories, but charge 
more than they do in other places. 

November 25TH. 
KYOTO, JAPAN. 

Kyoto is crowded to its utmost with such a howling mob of 
holiday seekers that you would think the whole of Japan had 
assembled to honor Togo and his fellow heroes. On setting 



Japan. 55 

out we beat against this giant human stream, who in all good 
nature shouted "Benzai" to us as though we were the ones to 
be cheered. One who has faced such a mob must realize the 
awful power that passion may turn them to, a power, once in- 
flamed, like so much dynamite. 

The Mikado's palace and Nijo palace, which may only be 
seen by royal permission, are great barn-like structures inside 
huge walls. There is nothing inside of them and the only 
sight at all of interest is the very gorgeous paintings on the 
walls and slides, especially in the latter. 

In some places the lacquer is excellent, as well as the bronze 
metal castings. Some might be interested to see where so 
many mikados have sat, slept and prayed, but to me it was 
nothing but a series of vast empty rooms and would make a 
fine hay shed if put in the right place. 

Our afternoon was of more interest. In turn we visited 
Imperial Museum, Hiyoshifinja Temple, Diabutsu — 58 feet 
high, Higashi, Hongroanji and Chion Monastery. 

Chief of interest was the last, which is a very huge temple. 
The entrance gate is a two-storied structure 8 feet by 38 feet. 
There is but one large room, 167 by 138 feet. In this huge 
room you look upon such a display of gold and candle-lighted 
shrines as we have not seen before; such a mass of gilded 
flowers, streamers, etc., that would make a Christmas tree glow 
with pride. 

I must not forget the animals who are given a pleasant 
park all to themselves and fit into their surroundings as though 
they had always lived there. 

November 26th. 

KYOTO. 

As I read back over a day or two there seems to be a lack 
of smack to the words I find there. In this I must remind 



56 Japan, 

my readers that most of these notes are written after busy days 
afoot and otherwise, sometimes rushing about as only we 
Americans can, so with all this the brain must lack a certain 
agility of the early morning. All I can do is to humbly lay 
these poor words at the feet of those kind friends who are in all 
things kind and charitable. 

If you could only step out into this bright world of flowers 
and sunshine when you must be shivering, even in your heated 
homes ; see the birds in glad delight flying here and there ; the 
wooded hills ; the children playing in the streets, and the ped- 
dler calling his wares. All this is Japan of to-day, and in such 
things we poor Chicagoans must take off our hats to her. 

We listened to Professor Coleman relate to his congrega- 
tion how for thirty years he has labored as missionary and 
teacher here in Kyoto. What great difficulties they have had 
in bringing the Doshisha School up to its present standing, I 
could not help but think as he spoke of the great changes 
which had come about in thirty years, what a change must 
come over Japan after this war. Civilization must come 
in. She is coming in very fast, with all the modern sciences 
showing great treasures to the humble people. Let us hope 
that as civilization does come and also through Japan to Korea 
and China, that she will leave behind some of our vices and 
spread on this land a few virtues, for she (Japan) has vices 
enough already. 

We found the excitement of yesterday somewhat abated 
and the shop keepers doing business in every street. 

In one place were collected 50,000 school children singing 
in honor of Togo. What a flock together, and if each mother's 
heart was there, too, how many would that make? They (the 
children) love to sing, and they love to march. There are no 
laggards, and as the boys keep step with their feet, so the girls 
keep time with their voices. 



Japan. 57 

November 27TH. 
KYOTO. 

Lake Biwa is the largest fresh water lake in Japan, 32 by 
12 miles. It is not so much the lake itself, but the beauty of 
its surroundings, which gives to it its charm. 

You ride up-hill almost all the way, running through dirty 
little villages until you reach Otsu. Just before you enter the 
town you pass a ridge which used to be the boundary line for 
foreigners to Kyoto, and about which a Japanese poet wrote : 

"Kore ga kono 
Yuku mo kaeru mo 
Wakarete wa 
Shiru mo shiranu Mo 
Au saka noseki." 

"The stranger here from distant lands 

The friend his home bound friend may greet 

For on this hill the barrier stands 

The gate where all must part and meet." 

You get a fine view of the lake from the Kwannon temple 
at Mudera, Little steamers and sail boats ply over its surface 
while here and there is a wooded island ; but, as I said before, 
the beauty is the hills about it. 

We stopped for lunch at a great pine tree, noted for its 
history as well as its size. It grows on a bank just above the 
water and is remarkable in that its branches stretch 240 by 
288 feet. 

We came back by the most wonderful canal I ever expect 
to see. It connects the lake with river and ocean and runs for 
a distance of about seven miles, about one-half of which is 
tunneled through the rocky mountains. It is a perfect wonder 



58 Japan, 

from an engineering standpoint and also no small mark of 
beauty in the path through which it leads the tourist. 
My paper is gone or I would say more. 

November 28th. 

OSAKA, JAPAN. 

As I look back at Kyoto, the city of the hills, I think of its 
huge temples and vast swarming crowds. They say the popu- 
lation is 400,000, but when the whole countryside comes in to 
celebrate you can double the number. In our visit to Sanpi 
san gendo we were shown the great ropes of hair which were 
used in construction of the temples. Nine ropes ten inches 
thick and 90 feet long, all made of hair from the poor country 
people, altogether 200,000 heads were shaved to make these 
ropes to build the temple ; but that is but a small sacrifice and 
they are only too glad to do it. There is another good story 
about a poor country man, who, clothed in pure white (mourn- 
ing garments), committed suicide one cold night on the temple 
steps to call the attention of the people, through his sacrifice, 
to social reforms. 

I left Kyoto with regret, as we had such a pleasant hotel, 
but Osaka is by the sea and by the sea we must go on floating 
around till we eventually bump up against America. 

November 29TH. 

KOBE. 

To-day has been spent in Osaka. It being a cold day the 
natives have taken a notion to house-clean, much to our dis- 
gust. Every street is filled with rubbish and dirt. It even 



Japan, 59 

floats in the air, perhaps, a million germs we breathe, but still 
we whirl on from hotel to mint, mint to castle, castle to temple, 
temple to shops, whirling, flying, walking — just the kind of 
globe trotters Chamberlain describes in his book. 

At last we are back to Kobe, our last port in Japan, and 
while we await the steamer I shall sum up Japan as I saw her. 
So very many have written of Japan, yet perhaps they might 
have forgotten a word or two. 

November 30TH. 
KOBE. 

Travelers who come to Japan to stay a month or two and 
then go away to write a book on the characteristics of the 
people, customs, etc., I do not think are in a position to render 
any authentic statements of the true nature of the people. The 
best and most accurate writing they may make are in her won- 
derful scenes which are daily shifting, with autumn now turn- 
ing her trees to crimson red and winter covering them with 
fleecy snow, and most beautiful of all, perhaps, the glorious 
bursting of the flowers in spring. 

Japan is different ; so much different from America. Her 
people are different ; their customs so different that a stranger 
entering her ports finds something new to stare at from every 
turn of the road. Gradually you become accustomed to these 
strange sights and customs, but who can say he thoroughly 
understands them? Their motives, the fickle turning of their 
minds, those points must ever be beyond us, even though we 
be born among them. They are in a different atmosphere 
from us. 

Before me on this table are a little pair of wooden clogs so 
much used as outdoor shoes, and on account of keeping the 
feet off the wet ground are a good thing, but they must be un- 



60 Japan. 

comfortable compared with our own, I stood out in the bright, 
sunny street as the people hobbled by and tried to get a thought. 
The women seemed to wear these shoes and the men sandals, 
but I know this is not so in other regions, so turn which way 
you will, each statement you make must ever be open to con- 
tradiction. 

The place that has impressed me most with its beauty (and 
it is hard to decide) is the region around Myanoshita. The 
lofty hills, the dashing streams and such beautiful cloud effects. 

Nikko and Ikaeo come next, then the Inland Sea, and last 
in turn Kyoto. 

All are beautiful, each in their own peculiar way. Each 
like some maiden who has her own peculiar twist of wavy 
hair, so each must ever toss and twist the misty strands of dew 
around some peak or hill, adding untold charms to an emerald 
back-ground. 

To you, poor readers, in a dirty, smoke-laden city, this 
comes like trash, but it is all here, and if you can find a fairer 
land nearer, go there, but I think you cannot. To me it has 
been two months of slothful idleness, yet the pleasures which 
each day has brought forth should make for the good. 

Our date of departure has been postponed until December 3. 

December ist. 
KOBE. 

Some one has kindly sent me a paper. Facts about Japan 
fiom an eminent lecturer. In some he is correct; I add a few 
and correct a few. 

1. Japan has about 50,000,000 people living in a country a 
little bigger than California. 

2. Only one-tenth of the country can be used on account' 
of rocky hills. 



Japan. 61 

3. The chief occupation of the people is agriculture. 

4. There are three distinct classes in Japan. The nobility ; 
the middle class, or merchants ; third class, including farmers, 
coolies, etc. 

5. Japanese married women still blacken their teeth in the 
country. 

6. Curiosity is their most distinguishing characteristic. 

7. There are many Fuji Yamas in Japan, but only one 
great one, 

8. All Japanese hair is black and coarse ; they have no 
blondes. 

9. Dull colors are a sign of good taste and modesty, un- 
less worn by children, when bright colors are permissible. 

10. Most Japanese women smoke. 

11. Japanese women prefer to sit on their feet on the floor 
rather than in a chair. 

12. Buildings are seldom over two stories on account of 
typhoons and earthquakes, 

13. Most country towns have open sewers, with fresh 
running water in them, 

14. All human and animal refuse is carefully saved in pits 
to be used in cultivation, 

15. The poor people never wear underclothes, but to pro- 
tect themselves from cold put on heavy padded kimonas and 
take hot baths. 

16. A bath is not hot unless it is above no degrees F. 

17. The roofs of houses are tiled or thatched, 

18. They have poor, scraggy ponies and good sized bulls, 
no gelding or steers, 

19. Though they live sanitary lives, they are subject to 
disease on account of so much uncooked vegetable food. 

20. The Japanese intestine is one-third longer than the 
foreigners on account of the nature of his food, 

21. Children in the country never have clean faces as they 
always have running colds. 



62 Japan, 

22. Few children are without a horrible eczema on the 
head and body caused by improper washing at birth. 

23. The Crow is a sacred bird in Japan (and is also a 
public nuisance). 

24. Rats thrive in every house and are little thought of. 
They also carry plague from house to house. 

25. Carpenters use their tools all backwards. Saws cut 
with the pull rather than push! Boards are pushed on the 
planes rather than planes on the boards. 

26. Old people are always bent double because they carry 
such heavy burdens. 

27. Babies are carried on the backs of parents and more 
on the backs of elder sisters and brothers. 

28. The ricksha man makes a good horse. He never runs 
away. He stops when he is told, seldom balks and only kicks 
when he is paid the proper coin. 

29. One-twentieth of the people live in boats on the seas 
and lakes. 

30. Fish supplies the place of animal food as a diet. 

31. Dogs and cats are used as pets, also many singing 
birds. 

32. The Japanese love flowers. Flowers are everywhere, 
indoors and out. 

33. Little trees a foot or two tall are sometimes hundreds 
of years old, 

34. Houses in the country are made of mud, wood and 
paper slides, and also thatched. 

35. The chief religions are Shintoism and Buddhism. 

36. Every man looks forward to joining the army with 
pleasure. It is a more idle life than the average have and 
better food and clothes. 

yj. Every large Japanese city has a Chinese settlement. 
38. White is a dress of mourning and black or modest 
colors of a wedding. 



Japan. 63 

39. The average speed of a fast train is about sixteen 
miles an hour, 

40. The Japanese tobacco is very mild, and, though they 
spend a good deal of time lighting their little pipes, they do 
not smoke as much as the European. 

41. People and vehicles always pass to the left rather than 
to the right, 

42. Their greatest hindrance in their race to civilization 
is the language and writings. Children are kept back in hav- 
ing to learn to read and write so many characters. 

December 2nd. 

KOBE. 

Still we are waiting and packing. The plague is gaining 
on the authorities and we will be glad to leave. 

December 3RD. 

On board S. S, "Minnesota," Kobe harbor. 
It seems a long step from Kobe, Japan, to Minnesota, but 
here we are. Fast unloading and getting ready to sail. 

December 4th. 

On board S. S. "Minnesota." Inland Sea. 
To-day has been ideal for seeing this beautiful sea, already 
described. 

December 5th. 

Early this morning about daybreak, we stopped at quaran- 
tine off Nagasaki. As it was the last chance to step on Jap- 



64 Japan. 

anese soil, we took the first opportunity to go ashore. The 
harbor is large and well walled about by the hills which shelter 
the ships. It has long been known as an open port and a 
coaling station for all nations. It is strange in ports of this 
kind how ships of all nations lie harmless beside each other. 
This morning as we came in we first passed a Russian cruiser 
and with her band playing a kind of dirge it seemed a quite 
appropriate tune for her present situation. Next was a Jap- 
anese war vessel, then a large German boat, then a French 
merchantman, and last, our Minnesota, the biggest of them 
all, with the American flag waving to the breeze. Here indeed 
was a setting for a peace treaty of nations. 

The town of Nagasaki is a rather common place. Tortoise 
shell shops give you the best chance to spend your money, and 
we return to the ship, which is being coaled by a human end- 
less chain. They hang huge stairways on the sides of the ship, 
then each girl or man takes a step to pass a basket of coal up, 
up, up, till its contents land in the hatch, and the basket goes 
flying back for a reload. They work like ants, swarming over 
everything, and seem tireless, so deftly do they send the baskets 
along. I watched one ladder and they passed 45 baskets a 
minute (each about 10 or 15 pounds). They say, that if neces- 
sary, they can put on 40,000 tons in 24 hours, but would, of 
course, have to have relays. They worked on our boat from 
9 till 3 without a stop, and then went back to tend their babies 
and do the house work as a pastime. They are wonderful 
people and deserve a rest in the hereafter. 

To-night we have pushed our nose out into the Yellow Sea. 
Ho, for China and good-bye for Japan. The last light is 
passed and Japan is gone from us. 



China, 65 



December 6th. 
S. S. "MINNESOTA." 

I have made several efforts and inquiries in Japan, trying 
to go to Port Arthur, but they do not allow foreigners to go 
there now, and what they do not allow is simply a stone wall. 

This is as near as we shall come to Port Arthur, and as I 
have nothing to relate of the place I will tell two true stories — 
one for the children and the other for their elders. 

"A man who lived in Yokohama had a shop with two 
Chinese clerks in Port Arthur. Besides these he had a little 
curly Korean dog. They all, like everybody else there, had a 
very hard time with little to eat. One day when everything 
else seemed quiet, a great Japanese shell struck the shop and 
blew it all to splinters, killing both the clerks in a horrible 
manner. 

"Another Chinaman who was a friend looked into the broken 
shop, and under an iron safe he found this little curly dog all 
safe and well. He tied a tag on the dog's neck with the 
owner's name and address, and gave the dog to some men who 
were trying to get out to Chefoo. From there it went by 
steamer to Yokohama. The owner had thought it was dead 
long ago and was delighted to hear from it again. 

"It's name was 'Chesa' (Japanese Little One)." 

The second story is probably not all as it was told me, but 
it was told as a true story, so I put it down: 

"You know a great host of the Japanese nobility volun- 
teered for the war, and so many were killed it seemed as though 
they would all go. In one part of the defensive operations 
about Port Arthur the Russians had dug a huge pit. Inside 
this pit they had strung barbed wire and spikes. All these 
were connected with electricity, so as to touch them meant in- 



66 China. 

stant death. The Japanese knew of this pit and saw there 
was but one way to take it. That was to fill it up with the 
bodies of the men making the charge. A certain prince vol- 
unteered to lead any who would follow him. A time was fixed 
and amid the thunder of the Russian guns forward they went. 

"The leader went down into the pit and man after man 
followed him till two whole regiments had gone to this awful 
death. The news was brought home to the poor mother of 
how her only son had led such a charge. 

They are not allowed to shed tears over their dead in Japan, 
so into her little sanctuary she went and, getting down upon 
her knees, prayed: T am thankful to have seen this day when 
my son could give his life twice over. First to his emperor, 
when he knew he went forward to certain death, and second 
in the way he died.' " Was there ever a mother of the Gracchi 
who could do more than that? 

December 7th. 

SHANGHAI, CHINA. 

This is great, big, monstrous old China staring out into the 
world through her huge dragon eyes and wondering whether 
a life of retirement and quiet is not better than getting into the 
whirlpool of our modern civilization. 

Shanghai is not a sea-port, though some good-sized steam- 
ers do get up here. You drop your ship just at the mouth of 
the dirty yellow Yangsti Kiang river and, dodging the high- 
pooped junks, you come up for eighteen miles to the city. It 
is a very modern city of large buildings, clean broad streets, 
and policemen who are an exact copy of the London Bobs, 
Everywhere crowding over one another are the natives, ragged 
and dirty, fat and greasy, and, in contrast to the snappy Japs, 
dull and stupid. 



China. 67 

We strolled around from street to street and finally our 
boys took us back of the modern city to the old native walled 
city. We were almost mobbed trying to enter it, and turned 
away. Lucky for us as our boy at last explained that the 
choice guide I picked out intended to rob us and might have 
killed us. 

December 8th. 
MINNESOTA— OFF SHANGHAI. 

All to-day has been spent in Shanghai, but to-night we are 
again on board and the anchor is coming over the side for 
Hong Kong, 

After aimlessly wandering the streets, we took carriage for 
a long drive out through Kingston Road, then on into the road 
of the Bubbling Spring. I imagine it is the best part of 
Shanghai. 

The way is lined with large country places entirely English 
in outline of houses and grounds, except that the climate gives 
them a more tropical vegetation. The streets are also typical 
of the English. Here, certainly, was a meeting of the old and 
new. A band of coolies down on their knees with their little 
hammers breaking and evening the road. Close beside them 
was a huge steam roller doing the work of a hundred hammers. 

There are a large variety of vehicles and modes of con- 
veyances. The most peculiar, perhaps, is the large wheel-bar- 
rows, on which a half dozen lazy creatures will lounge while 
one poor coolie pushes his life out. There are few Sedan 
chairs, donkey carts, etc., but most common is the ricksha, 
much more heavily built and clumsy than the Japanese. 

We passed through one Chinese village in our drive. It 
was as dirty as a pig pen with all kinds of fowls and animals 
mixed in with the natives. They seem to have a great fond- 



68 China, 

ness for pork, and in certain butcher shops rows of pig heads 
stare at you from all sides. Back in the city we saw a great 
many places where chickens and ducks were sold already 
cooked. Quite an economical way, and if you can get your 
bird home quick enough you might have a warm supper. Also 
boats lying in the river filled with eggs. Eggs by the bushel, 
and still the race exists. No wonder the Shanghai chicken is 
known the world over. 

December 9th. 

S. S. MINNESOTA. 

You can see the coast most all the way. Now and then a 
fishing smack, 

December ioth. 

S. S. MINNESOTA. 

We are certainly nearing the equator. We will land in 
Hongkong bright and early. 

MONDAY MORNING. 

The last of our American ship. 

December iith. 

HONGKONG, CHINA. 

We struck a heavy fog early this morning and for hours 
lay at anchor waiting for the landmark to guide us up the 



China. 69 

narrow channel. At last the fog began to lift, but as it cleared 
away we had a small sample of what the tropical sun may be. 
Up the bay we caught glimpses of the steep rocky shore, ad- 
mirably suited to establish fortifications, which the English 
have not been slow to take advantage of. 

In the outer harbor we found two Russian cruisers and our 
own Wisconsin, which our friend and fellow passenger, Capt. 
Drake, was about to take command of. As we came into the 
'inner channel we got our first glimpse of the city. It is a 
thoroughly modern looking city and lies with its back against 
a high peak. The buildings being so placed that, like the seats 
of a theatre, you may see from most any point what is going on 
in the harbor. The harbor was filled with boats and junks of 
every description. Here also was our gunboat "Raleigh," and 
several British men of war. 

We have left our Minnesota and are on solid land once 
more, or rather solid rock, for, like the British themselves, 
this city is built on rocks and of rocks. 

We are disappointed in the poor hotels, but will make the 
best of our short stay here. They say this is a very crowded 
season. 

All the shops are glittering with Christmas toys, much as 
State street must be at just this time, and almost as crowded. 

December i2th. 
HONGKONG, CHINA. 

It is just three months ago to-day that we left all the com- 
forts of a home to wonder forth in these heathenish lands. No 
letters to-day from home. Must we wait another three weeks ? 

I have not said much about the natives here. In fact they 
do not interest me as the Japanese, beside whom they are rather 



70 China, 

dull and listless. To be sure there are enough of them. Thick 
as flies bobbing about with their chairs and rickshas and their 
silk braided cues swinging to the breeze. Their language 
sounds somewhat like the Japanese, only they talk as though 
their mouths were full of molasses. We being situated on Ice 
House 'Road it is quite cool here. Just a little ways up the hill 
from the hotel is a pretty park filled with palms and other trop- 
ical growth, all festooned with the hanging moss same as our 
own South. Last evening we walked up through this to the 
cathedral to listen to a Hindu regiment band. It was strange 
to see so many queer people around you, but mostly English. 
As the band ceased the mocking birds and other songsters 
began, and from a musical standpoint quite outdid their human 
rivals. 

The shops, as I said before, are crowded, but have beautiful 
displays of silverware and ivory, also rattan work is very cheap. 
A fine steamer chair for about a dollar gold. We have already 
sampled them in many respects, but shall try again to-morrow, 

December 13TH. 

HONGKONG. 

We climbed the peak to-day, or rather our car did. It is 
another queer railroad and somewhere in its parental line there 
must have been an elevator, a trolley and perhaps a cable car. 
It would be impossible to explain the mechanism and would 
certainly give a good chapter to any book on physics. 

You are seated on a car and pretty soon you see your feet 
coming up to a position of a man with his feet on the table. 
In reality you rise 1,800 feet in about a mile and a quarter. 
But such a grand view of the city below you, the harbor, and 
on the other side on a clear day you must be able to see for 
many miles out in the ocean. 



Chika. 71 

Hongkong is built on Victoria island with high peaks that 
rise right out of the ocean. 

A great many people have built their homes on these high 
places (fine places in summer to catch the cool breezes), but 
I do not see how they can stand it in a typhoon. There is also 
a large hotel up there, but this is their off season. 

December 14TH. 

HONGKONG. 

Up and down the crowded streets (bustling with trade) 
till late this evening, and we have seen China town. Such a 
variety of life I never saw before. In some places they were 
eating and you would see a dozen crowded around a table gob- 
bling down their dirty looking food. Just like so many rats, 
now and then letting forth a squawk or a squeal, much like 
the lower animal, 

I asked my friend, the doctor from the boat, why we did 
not see more children, and he said: "They kill all the girl 
babies." Whether there is any truth in this or not, I do not 
know. From what I have seen of the sailors on our boats and 
from what people say, they place very little value on human life. 
They tell of a man who went out hunting in the rice fields and 
accidentally shot a baby on a woman's back. The natives made 
a great rumpus until he paid the woman what is equal to about 
ten cents and they were well satisfied. Since then they are 
trying to get all their babies shot. 

The average Chinaman earns much less than even the poor 
Japanese. From all I can learn, six cents is about an average 
day's pay. Of course, when they can speak English they are 
worth more, but even what they call skilled labor never gets 
higher than 10 or 12 cents a day. They could hardly support 
a family on this, but when you remember that each member of 



72 China. 

a household is out earning something, they get along, a kind 
of hand-to-mouth existence from one year's end to another. 
They live together a dozen families to a house, like our tene- 
ment flats, only much more crowded and dirtier than you have 
ever seen in America. 

On one street where we were this morning the shops were 
filled with silver workers, pounding and twisting their very 
artistic wares. In another about twenty modern sewing ma- 
chines were going to their limit. I passed those same shops 
about ten at night and the same shaved heads shone under 
their little torches. It is hard to describe; it is all so dismal 
and unhuman-like ; truly can you say, that "One-half the world 
does not know how the other half lives" ; but let us hope that 
civilization may show to these people a happier lot than the 
ages through which they have been toiling, toiling on, and still 
their plane is no higher to-day than it was before "Peace and 
good will" was given to men. 

December 15TH. 
HONGKONG. 

These are rather dreary days in Hongkong, and the set- 
tlers say the weather is unusually cool, but I would rather 
have this than the extreme heat we are coming to. We took 
a ferry across the bay this afternoon, where the shops, though 
not as numerous, have things to sell much cheaper than around 
town, which is generally the case a little off the beaten track. 
But it is rather dangerous to get too far off, for there are ten 
thousand to one, and when you disappear the most your friends 
can do is get an indemnity, a poor consolation. The poor 
Chinamen are always paying great indemnities. Every gov- 
ernment in the world puts one on her for every petty offense 
of her citizens. So the tax collectors go out to tax the poor 



China. 73 

people till they have nothing left to tax but the skin of their 
backs. 

We visited the museum, but it has a rather simple collec- 
tion, but bugs are always interesting even when you have them 
served for breakfast. 

Our arrangements are complete to go to Canton for next 
Monday, which should be unique and interesting, 

December i6th. 

HONGKONG. 

There are two things which must attract the attention of 
foreigners to Hongkong. First, the absence of horses. Not 
that they do not have horses at all, but I have not seen one in 
a week's time, and I have been everywhere. N. says she saw 
one going towards the meat market, but as she did not see it 
come away, that one is probably en table de hote. 

The second thing is the policeman. They have a few native 
policemen, but most of them are Shikes from India. They 
are great, tall, straight fellows, and the Chinaman who tried 
any tricks with them would have a hard time. I believe the 
English brought an entire regiment from India. They are al- 
ways polite and considerate to strangers, but the native gets 
little but sharp words from them. 

This afternoon we again climbed the Peak on our cable 
elevator trolley and taking chairs rode for an hour amongst 
the beautiful English places. They are all so situated that 
they have some grand scenes to look at over the cliffs and 
peaks, and away out on an emerald ocean. In one round bay 
it looked from our point like a cake with the little islands for 
caraway seeds. 

As I said before, the chairs are used more than any other 
conveyance. Each household has two or three and furnish 



74 China. 

uniforms for their coolies. They even have grown men to 
wheel baby carriages, but as long as they don't throw the 
"kids" over the rocks I imagine they would serve the purpose, 
and so cheap compared with some of the useless luxuries that 
act in that capacity at home. 

December 17TH. 
HONGKONG. 

We had the pleasure of sitting with our distinguished fellow 
countryman in church this morning, William J. Bryan. He 
is taking the same route as we are with a few extra trips, and 
is, I understand, getting information with which to publish a 
book. Whatever your politics are, you cannot but admire the 
man from the very untiring road he has traveled in his efforts 
to be seated in the president's chair, and I understand he is still 
willing to be chosen president at the next opportune moment. 

To-night we are gliding up the Pearl River on our way to 
Canton. 'Tis a pleasure to read "Every convenience" on the 
bills, and for once to find the truth. 

December i8th. 

CANTON, CHINA. 

It is a strange and confused memory that brings back the 
day. A mob of chattering heathen, a horror of filthy smells, 
a mass of dirt and grewsomeness, this is Canton. A city sup- 
posed to have three millions of people, of whom about five hun- 
dred thousand live on the water in sampans and junks, as my 
friend said, "as thick as fleas on a dog's back." 




TEMPLE OF THE HUNDRED GODS, CANTON. 



China. 75 

I cannot say I enjoyed it, yet, like the stockyards is to Chi- 
cago, you cannot have seen China until you have seen Canton. 
With a native guide and three boys to a chair we set out to see 
the sights. Pushing through jabbering mobs, we went from 
shop to shop; but as the guide was out to make money we 
found things dearer than in Hongkong. The streets of Can- 
ton do not average more than five feet in width and vary from 
three to seven; this, of course, means the native quarters. 
When you see what crowds swarm these streets carrying any- 
thing from a live pig to a coffin you realize how slow prog- 
ress is. 

Our boys kept up one continual Indian war whoop to clear 
the way. We visited several ill-kept temples and shrines, then 
the prison. They still have all the means of torture that were 
used during the middle ages ; instruments to cut and tear them 
apart in every way. You may have seen pictures of Chinese 
prisoners with sort of bill-board signs around their necks and 
feet in stocks. 

This looks like a very mild punishment at first glance, yet 
when you know that they have put a sort of syrup around the 
eyes and face to attract the flies and mosquitoes it is not so 
agreeable. They are able to reach up a little ways with their 
hands, but can never get at their face, which is all the more 
aggravation. Ten men were beheaded the day before and the 
guide wished to know if we cared to see the remains, but we 
had seen enough and were glad to climb up out of this filth to 
a bright hillside. Here on a stone table with stone chairs we 
ate our lunch in picnic fashion on this i8th day of December. 
Up above us was a great five-storied pagoda, 1,200 years old. 
On another hill was an old fort with ancient guns still looking 
down on us. Down the hill was a cemetery where the graves 
are dug horse-shoe fashion. It was good to look up at the 
blue sky and catch a breath of clean air. Then we went on 
and in it once more. For your sake I shall forget the lepers 
and fried rats and all other grewsome things. 



76 China, 

The city of the dead is a clean, agreeable place, and after a 
man has lived and earned a decent burial he is given a room 
here on six dollars a month. Hot tea is served him every day 
and his coffin is the best. In some rooms a man had laid away 
his several wives, and as our friend (who was a second wife) 
remarked, the second and third ones always get the worst of 
it. In turn we visited the water clock and temple of five hun- 
dred idols and were glad to get back to a comfortable cup of 
tea on the boat. A hard day. 

December 19TH. 

HONGKONG. 

Our last day in China is a day of preparation for our jour- 
ney to the south. 

The Prince Heinrich looks very small compared with our 
big American ships, but trust she will prove all the good things 
we have heard of her. 

One last word from home and we are ready to set sail. 

December 2oth. 

ON BOARD "PRINCE HEINRICH." 

It is a pretty passage out to sea from Hongkong and I 
regret the fog that hid the shore coming in. Our way out is 
by a different course and all around are islands and high main- 
lands. Our ship is showing her good speed, but takes a mo- 
tion like a cork-screw. She is only an 8,000-ton ship, com- 
pared with the "Dakota's" 25,000. 



China. 77 

December 2ist. 

ON BOARD "PRINCE HEINRICH." 

This is a tropic clime and to do our best it is hard to keep 
cool. If it is this way on deck, what can it be in the stokers' 
hold? Germany is all around us, and between the beer and 
the band you can almost see that "Castle on the Rhine." It 
is a good ship and excellent service. 

December 22nd. 

All the morning w ehave been passing close to the coast of 
Cochin, China, a ragged and barren coast. Faint outlines of 
Saigon (the city where the Russian warships created so much 
disturbance and distress to Japan before the set out for their 
disaster) gleam out of the mist. Two French cruisers steam 
up the coast. It brings one more in touch with Robert Steven- 
son and other writers of southern seas to see these same islands, 
the same blue waters through which have passed enough real 
history and excitement to make his novels seem mild in com- 
parison. Pirates still make their raids along these coasts, 
pouncing onto their countrymen whenever they get a chance, 
but it would be a sorry day for them if they tackled any other 
nation who would hustle them along like a big policeman. 

My, but it is hot. It is not our summer heat, but a dull, 
sultry atmosphere that seems to steal into your very bones. 
On September 28th we were farther north than Winnipeg; 
to-day we are almost to the equator. 



78 SiKGAPORE. 

-December 23RD. 

S. S. "PRINCE HEINRICH." 

We are fast nearing our first stop and to-morrow early will 
see us well landed in Singapore. Singapore is just about 125 
miles north of the equator and as near as we expect to come to 
it (thank Heaven). It is not an agreeable climate to live in, 
not only from the matter of keeping cool, but all else that goes 
with it. 

December 24TH. 
S. S. "PRINCE HEINRICH" OFF SINGAPORE. 

It is a pleasure to turn one's thoughts back to the snow 
piles and icy blasts of Lake Alichigan. They say the tempera- 
ture never goes above 86 degrees here, or below 76 degrees, 
but I know this is not so, for to-night at ten o'clock, in the 
dead of winter it is 86 degrees. Oh, for a Chicago icicle. 
However, it was a pleasure to find such a luxuriously verdant 
world down here. Palms, flowers and shrubs seem just to 
drop into every crevice of the universe, and great big fellows 
that would be ashamed of our finest hot-house specimens. 
Leave, then, your early breakfast, come out on deck with us to 
see the shining black fellows jump from their miniature barks 
after the coins, never a miss and back again as quick as a wink. 
I believe their mothers are true mermaids. Then getting into 
a carriage, or what stands for a carriage (a gherry) we dash 
up to town as fast as our Shetland pony will carry us. The 
population is thoroughly mixed, with the Chinese and Malays 
predominating. The Chinaman is the same as elsewhere, ex- 
cept that he wears less clothes. The natives are quite different 




MAIN STREET, SINGAPORE. 



Singapore. 79 

and have crinkly jet-black hair, and wear a kind of calico kilt, 
leaving their handsome black skin to view. 

Raffles Hotel is called starvation point, so shunning that 
we start out for the botanical gardens. It is "a perfect dream," 
as the school girls say, and contains every wonder of plant life 
that is possible, and such grand, huge specimens. 

A special feature is "the jungle," a name which readily 
recalls one to tigers, snakes and other such, but fearing the 
deluge more we speed back to our ship for Tiffin. 

Again we are off on the trolley in cars which bring us 
nearer to our own summer cars than anything we have seen. 
Dodging the money changers, who rob you of all the shop 
keepers leave you, we again take our funny little gherry and go 
to the huge reservoir outside the city about five miles. 'Tis a 
pretty ride beside the canal down through groves of cocoanut 
palms and then a little landscape garden leading to the pond. 

Water is the great question in these parts and the only 
safety is in bottles of Appolenaris. 

It being Sunday there is nothing to buy except that we find 
it necessary to break the Sabbath by buying the regulation pith- 
helmet, which brings to mind an early picture of Stanley in 
Darkest Africa. In some places the ground is very low and 
unhealthy, but the natives, like their water buffaloes, seem to 
thrive there. There is much to tell of, but there is another day 
to tell it in. 

December 25TH. 
ON BOARD S. S. "PRINCE HEINRICH." 

When you come to Japan you are in as different a world as 
though you had flown to Mars. China has many points of re- 
semblance to Japan, yet these Strait settlements have as much 
difference as coming from home to Japan. 'Tis not a place 
where any Chicagoan could delight to live in. 



80 Singapore. 

Our friend, the minister, pleasantly remarked : "My cousin 
came here as a missionary and lived two months." The air is 
too oppressive. 

The town is full of grave yards built on the hillside in their 
peculiar horse-shoe fashion. At the base of one grave yard 
was a public well with the natives all around it. Do you won- 
der the town is full of typhoid fever ? Poor fools, they do not 
know any better. Really there are some beautiful homes sur- 
rounded by every kind of palm and plant. 

The main business of the day is performed either before 
eleven or after four. 

The golf links on the race course reminded me very much 
of Washington Park, and I imagine nine holes was quite 
enough. You see all kinds of fruits here — mangoes, bread 
fruit, huge yellow things like watermelons, and peddlers on 
every corner with their cut and uncut pineapples. Back up in 
the country I understand the land is mostly taken up with 
pineapple plantations. Having bargained and re-bargained 
with the keen Indians for every kind of ware, we sailed away 
promptly at noon. 

The coast is very pretty as we run out by the little islands, 
and if I was to take my choice of a residence here it would be 
out in the sea away from the foul swamps and contamination 
of the shore. 

Showers at last spoil our view and we trun our thoughts 
with other friends to our Christmas celebration. 

'Tis needless to say that our thoughts rest in a certain little 
village of northern Illinois, wondering, planning and thinking 
of the day with its festivities. However, we have a pleasant 
company and as merry a Christmas as is possible so far away. 



Penang, 81 

December 26th, 
"PRINCE HEINRICH"— OFF PENANG. 

We arrived in Penang at four o'clock, and as we leave 
early in the morning must see our sights before dark. When 
you approach the city from the sea it looks low, being on a 
kind of isthmus running out from the base of the hills, but 
when you go up into the town you find the land better drained 
and more clean than at Singapore ; in fact the whole city ap- 
peals to us more than at Singapore. 

It seems to me I have heard of Penang pepper all my life, 
but there was no sign of it. Our boat was busy all night taking 
on coffee, which, with the large quantity of tobacco we took on 
at Singapore makes a good cargo ; but not a sign of pepper or 
any other spice. Back up in the valley are the botanical gar- 
dens, much more extensive and beautiful than those at Singa- 
pore. Here high up comes a roaring water-fall, clear and 
bright, making a picture not to be overlooked, at the same 
time giving the city a generous supply of good water. I do 
not believe I shall ever see so many cocoanut trees again in my 
life ; I know I never saw so many before. Around each house 
is a perfect grove, and for the several miles up to the garden 
you see nothing but them. They must be a considerable part 
of the food for the natives, and it is a shame to see so many 
going to waste on the ground. 

The first point that strikes the visitor is the old fort which, 
having served its time, is about to be taken down. It seems to 
have been built with more than usual skill and has evidently 
seen good service. 

Next is the beautiful clock tower presented to the town by 
Queen Victoria. How simple and finely toned were its chimes. 
No discord or noisy ringing of mere gongs, but the soft peals 
that make true harmony. 



82 Penang, 

The homes of Penang are not artistic in their design, but 
you forget the houses when you see such a wealth of nature 
and grounds, all of which are far ahead of any at Singapore. 

This is Boxer day, or the day after Christmas. Where the 
name comes from no one seems to know. I make a wild guess, 
that it's the day they unbox their presents. Anyway it is as 
much Christmas as yesterday, so the shops are all closed. 

Back on ship with noisy natives still swinging the cargo 
down the hold. A hot, poor place to sleep. At home in sum- 
mer we have hot days and cool nights ; here it is always the 
same day and night — never below 80 degrees. 

December 27TH. 

"PRINCE HEINRICH." 

Nothing of special interest has passed us to-day since we 
left the verdant land, unless it be a hugh rock stuck up in the 
'sea and must be a point of danger to the mariners. Not a 
speck of vegetation, yet over it hung a cloud of birds like flies 
around some sweets. Close beside it was a carcass of a whale 
having his bones carefully picked by these same booboo birds. 

While we journey on out into the great Bay of Bengal I 
must tell you of some of our passengers, not in the first cabin 
or second, but the steerage. There is a band of Russian peas- 
ants from Sakhalien island. They came on board the S. S. 
"Minnesota" at Kobe; such great uncouth, clumsy fellows, 
wearing their fur coats and high boots, showing many signs 
of the rough life they had led. At Hongkong they were 
re-clothed for these hot climates, and so they are being passed 
on from ship to ship till they must land once more in troubled 
and upturned Russia. Where is their home? No peace any- 
where, and like Longfellow's people of Arcadia, driven hither 
and thither by the fortunes of war, for Japan claims the land 



At Sea. 83 

and she does not want the people. I beUeve you will see the 
day when she will own the whole island. 

December 28th. 

"PRINCE HEINRICH." 

We passed several large freighters to-day. One or two 
quite close, almost within hailing distance. It is strange to a 
land-lubber how they have paths in the sea as clear to a mariner 
as our lanes and by-ways at home. Navigation is a great 
science, and I can easily see how fascinating it must become, 
and once instilled into an old salt he clings to the sea through 
all the allurements of a life on land. 

December 29TH. 

"PRINCE HEINRICH." 

Have you ever gazed out over the sea and felt the fascina- 
tion of it? Each ragged, foam-capped wave rising, skipping, 
dancing, twisting, tossed hither and thither, answering to every 
whim of breeze, now glowing white as it rises to meet a sun 
beam, now frowning dark as it lowers itself into the depths, 
and with its ever-changing color it sweeps out around you 
into a limitless circle, straight on into the azure sky. Here 
only is your gaze stopped. Then swing your eyes back up 
into the cloud-specked Heavens. Here again are new wonders. 
Those soft downy fleeces that swing across your field like sis- 
ters to the waves, each bears resemblance to its neighbor, yet 
what two can you say were fashioned in the same mold. Now 
you see a hand stretched out to grasp a little cupid, but ever 
they sweep on, each following in silent, ghost-like procession 



84 Ceylon. 

across the sky, never hurrying, but always coming out from 
the infinite to disappear in the infinite. All this you see and 
a thousand other things. And so you wonder at the great 
life around you. For if ever there was life, here it is. 

December 30TH. 

S. S. "PRINCE HEINRICH." 

This morning we sighted land about eight o'clock and will 
probably land about four. Good-bye to "Prince Heinrich"; 
'tis the best boat for service we have had so far. I don't think 
I shall sleep in a bed after becoming so accustomed to a berth. 
Now for Ceylon and India. 

December 31ST. 

COLOMBO, CEYLON. 

In the Garden of Eden. That is the original one. There 
have been many imitations, but this is truly the original show. 

The only thing that does not seem to gibe with authorities 
is that there are no apple trees from which to pick the fruit 
of sin, but perhaps it was a pineapple, as they grow in abund- 
ance. 

Another thing is, this is an island. How then did they, 
Adam and Eve, get off the islands when driven from it; but 
there again you can meet the difficulty by realizing what good 
swimmers the Chingalese people are ; but I would lay all these 
points before a learned man I know of and pass on to the 
matter of fact. 

We landed along towards evening and were driven out to 



Ceylon. 85 

the hotel by the sea. It was not a long drive, but you at once 
realized you were breathing a rarer and softer air than ever 
before, and such smooth, fine boulevards. It was good to get 
ashore, but it's better to be ashore in such a place. 

This morning after a long call from the crows, we opened 
our doors and there before us was the "painted ship sailing on 
the painted sea." 

Close down by the shore are the huge cocoanut trees which 
silhouette themselves on a sea of breakers. In fact, cocoanut 
trees are everywhere, groves and groves. It seems a poor, 
red clay they grow in, but they thrive in their endless extrav- 
agance, and not alone, but around them are palms of every 
shape and size known to man with a thousand other trees and 
shrubs intermingled. Through long lanes of such trees we rode 
out to Mount Lavinia this afternoon to gaze once more at the 
gentle ocean while we sipped our lemon squash and listened 
to the chattering merchants all around us. 

It is a land of joy and pleasure where care rests light and 
clothes are not a burden. To be sure it is warm, but which 
do you choose, a land covered with snow and ice or a land of 
eternal summer, of harvest time each day. Why do not all 
tramps settle in Ceylon? 

January ist. 

COLOMBO, CEYLON. 

A happy New Year to you all. I send my message by the 
sun as he is the quickest one I know of. And speaking of the 
sun, 'tis strange what sunsets we have here just before it strikes 
the horizon. There is a blaze of gold. You look to see the sun 
several degrees above the horizon, you turn your head just a 
second and it is gone, but if it is swift in setting it is also unre- 



86 Ceylon. 

lentless while it is here and to stir outdoors without your helmet 
is dangerous. 

Having decided to see India first and then Ceylon, we have 
seen the man from Cooks, and will start for a four weeks trip 
to-morrow. So if you, who read, care to follow, just glance 
at the map in the following order : 

Colombo to Tuticorin, to Madura, to Madras, to Calcutta, 
to Benares, to Lucknow, to Agra, to Delhi, to Jeypore, to Ah- 
medabad, to Bombay, to Madras, to Colombo. This sounds 
short but it means between four and five thousand miles, which 
should keep us busy. 

We tried to see the museum, but it being New Years was 
closed. It is surrounded by a cinnamon garden, but unfortu- 
nately it is not kept up. It is curious to see the lizards playing 
in the trees like squirrels and you soon get used to them. They 
are such shy little creatures. The natives not knowing of any 
Declaration of Independence are busy setting off their crackers 
to-day. The smoke has quite a homelike smell this hot day. 

January 2nd. 

S. S. PADURA 
BETWEEN COLOMBO AND TUTICORIN. 

We are on our way to India and shall spend the night 
crossing by the British India steamer. Already you feel you 
are in the atmosphere of the empire, overhead the huge fan 
Punkah swings back and forth being controlled by one man 
power. This is supposed to be one of the roughest places on 
the globe, but to-night it is quite calm. 



India. 87 

January 3RD. 
MADURA. 

We are situated in this little village of about 100,000 souls. 
Having landed early at Tuticorin we took the regulation Eng- 
lish coach here to Madura. It is a very uninteresting ride, the 
country is almost a desert where only century plants and goats 
seem able to live. Once in a while a listless stream will flow 
down out of the hills, but there are so many poor creatures 
to use the water that it must grow dry long before it completes 
its course to the sea. We were warned by a Catholic priest 
that we would find little in the landscape to demand inspection 
so shall not be disappointed, but everywhere you turn are those 
same flashing white eyeballs, those long reaching palms. In 
spite of their nakedness they are not an immodest people and 
very seldom will you flnd even a naked child without at least 
a string around his waist. 

The chief sights of Madura are the temple, the palace and 
the large water pool. The temple is a huge affair and must 
cover at least ten acres of ground. It was built about 1600 and 
is remarkably well preserved, being mostly of granite. Each 
one of the four gates rises to about 200 feet in height and is 
a solid series of tiny images and carvings. I shall not attempt 
a description of the interior. So many shrines, so many hall- 
ways and special tombs. Foul smelling wells and burning 
incense, and all these put down in guide books with a historical 
description. The things that impressed me were the prostrate 
natives, the live elephants and parrots. But far more beautiful 
than the temple was the water tank. It is about two miles in 
circumference and in its center is one of the cleanest, whitest 
shrines I have seen, surrounded with many tropical trees. 

Coming back to our hotel in the railroad station we passed 
a huge Banyon tree. It has about two hundred trunks reach- 



88 India. 

ing down into the ground and is about three hundred feet in 
diameter. 

To-night we saw the same temple illuminated, but in the 
future I shall stay at home for such shows. 

January 4th. 
MADURA— MADRAS— CALCUTTA. 

We left Madura about noon after having once more re- 
visited the water pond, the tree and palace. In my letter of 
the 3rd I failed to mention the palace. It was built many 
years ago, but owing to the fact that the English use it as a 
court house is exceptionally well kept up. You enter by a 
huge court yard and passing under lofty domes you enter the 
palace proper. There is a story how a native let himself down 
from the roof by the hanging chains and stole the royal jewels. 
While we stood thinking of how they made the poor wretch 
suffer fir his crime, in came five handcuffed individuals between 
the flashing swords of the native police. The evidence of 
their mischief was on hand, a huge iron box having been ham- 
mered ojen and 500 rupees stolen for which they will probably 
suffer death for England rules with an iron bar. 

Leaving Madura, N, was put in a compartment with three 
other of the haughty race, and myself, after being almost 
kicked out, found a seat with some "gents." I use the word as 
gentlemen would be too good. 

At Taj ore I met some Yale college boys and we decided 
to take a second class compartment rather than again beard 
the British lion. 

Bright and early we landed at Madras, the third largest 
city of India. It was rather disappointing at the beginning. 
The hotel was poor, the weather was rainy and it looked as 



Isi&A. 89 

though we would find nothing but disgust. Having passed 
through another common zoological garden down through the 
heart of the city, we turned back towards the hotel. Here 
is where things began to brighten up. They call it the Marina. 
'Tis a beautiful boulevard stretching along the sea-shore. Di- 
rectly behind the drive are old palaces and forts, many attract- 
ive and well-kept places. The drive itself runs along for about 
eight miles but after enjoying the tropical growth and fresh 
salt air for some time, we turned back on a road where the 
trees were even more luxuriant and among which were pretty 
herds of deer. There are many statues and memorials of noted 
British who have gone before, and an especially large statue 
of King Edward. 

There are many sights, but we must go on to Calcutta. 
After bribing all the officials on the road (for few are above 
taking the handed coin) and after fighting tooth and nail we 
secured a compartment with a large German and his still larger 
frau, who will be our eating and sleeping companions for the 
next 48 hours. 

Great Britain can boast of how she has conquered these 
people and wrung from them their every pittance till they look 
up at an Englishman as a semi-god. Boast of this and a thou- 
sand other things, but she cannot boast of a railroad. Her 
system here is simply rotten and I regret the space that will 
not allow me to describe it, suffice to say. 

You buy meal tickets when you start ; your meals are or- 
dered ahead at certain stations ; your train is four hours late ; 
you get breakfast at 12, lunch at 5, dinner at 10 p. m. Very 
convenient hours. If you don't eat you lose your tickets. 

It is a dry and desolate country all the way up here and 
reminds me very much of Arizona, except, perhaps, they do 
have a dirty puddle of water, now and then, and the farther 
north you go the more frequent these become. 

A little rice is grown, a little sugar cane, but most of the 



90 India. 

dry country is given over to herds of goats, cattle, or water 
buffalos, strange birds and an occasional jackal makes a bow 
and takes his departure. Around each station is a cluster 
of native huts which look much like hay stacks, but which are 
nothing but low, thatched huts. If you would see primitive 
life, here it is, the naked native, the smoldering fire and the 
mud, or thatched hut all bring back those pictures of our own 
Indian life now so fast disappearing. The temperature has 
fallen several degrees and you look for ice on the Ganges as 
you land early in Calcutta. 

Calcutta, the great metropolis, Calcutta with all its history 
of a land taken from the natives lying at its feet. Here is the 
black Hole where so many Europeans were smothered to death. 
Here the great fort covering the river front, and scattered over 
the entire city monuments and statues to commemorate each 
deed in its life. 

After extravagantly engaging a servant at the price of forty 
cents per day who acts as butler, housemaid, groom, valet, 
guide and general utility man, we set out. 

We visited the Zoological Gardens, and if there is any rep- 
tile, beast or creeping thing which we have not seen, after to- 
day, I want to know about it. 

Then came the temple of Alighat, sacred to Kali, who was 
chopped up and lost her finger on this spot. (Guide book.) 

The place was quite bloody as they were sacrificing young 
kids and goats here. We witnessed an execution and then 
passed on to the water ghat, all this time surrounded by the 
howling populace. Here was a strange comparison. The 
old customs of that early religion which was given to the 
Jews way back in the lost ages. Those sacrifices of blood, the 
putting of ashes on the head, the washing of the feet all gone 
through with as much sincerity as they were in Israel three 
thousand years ago, now a daily practice amongst these people 
and right along side of all this was our modern trolley, our 



Ik^a. 91 

drug store and every device of an up-to-date world. Was the 
old and the new ever so near together and so far apart? 

The museum of Calcutta is an immense affair and well 
worth giving a half day to, but we shall put it off as the time 
for closing was at hand. 

We gazed on the marble statue of Empress and Queen Vic- 
toria and wondered if she ever knew in her kind heart how 
much these her poor subjects suffered. 

January 9th. 

The morning was spent in retracing our steps of yesterday, 
mainly passing through the museum. As curious and as inter- 
esting as the museum itself, are the natives who flock here to 
see it. In one place they have arranged the skeletons of dif- 
ferent forms of apes and ou-rang ou-tangs up to those of a 
perfect man to show the stages through which we have passed. 
The natives were very much interested and talked over the sub- 
ject as though they really understood what no man yet does. 

After vainly trying to get across the Ganges which has 
but one bridge, we drove out to a private Jain temple which, 
although not large, is perfectly laid out and quite elaborate 
for the display of a single purse. My pictures will tell a better 
story of it. 

January ioth. 

CALCUTTA, INDIA. 

Clear and bright, 70°. 

This is our last day in Calcutta. Our trip will have to 
be shortened by two weeks. 

The most interesting and beautiful place in Calcutta is 



92 India. 

the Botanical Garden, a fine extent of wooded land of about 
272 acres running along the river Hooghly. Although they are 
so beautiful and well kept it is necessary to drive through the 
worst part of the city to reach it. You feel you are entitled 
to all its ponds and picturesque lanes when you reach there. 

January iith. 
BENARES, INDIA. 

We left Calcutta by fast mail, as the miles traveled will 
show, and after changing cars landed here in early morning. 
Benares is the heart of India, that is, from a religious point, 
and as that is bread and meat to the natives it is everything. 
There are more sacred points here than in any other place in 
India and to die outside the precents of the city is a disgrace. 
In fact, they say if you die on the other side of the Ganges 
your soul enters a donkey; if you die in the city your 
soul enters a monkey. Which do you prefer? You can best 
see the sacred places from a boat. Slowly we were rowed 
back and forth along by the crowded banks, or more properly 
a stretch of ghats or bathing places, each one swarming with 
its human deities who not only bathe in the filthy water but 
drink all they can of its filthiness. Leading from the river 
back up to the shrines and holy temples are steps, and on these 
steps are moored the sacred cattle. In one place they had a 
burning ghat where we again saw the bodies escending up in 
smoke, but this is a clean sight compared with that of seeing 
them drink the filthy water. No guide attempts to describe 
the shrines and temples of Benares. There are from two to 
three thousand. I can only give you this brief notion as I 
snap-shoted them. The Monkey Temple and Golden Temple 
are quite ordinary except for their occupants. Some few 



India, 93 

years ago the monkeys became quite a nuisance, as they are 
allowed the freedom of the city, and took everything they could 
lay their hands on. So they sent off about i,ooo. Now they 
have 2,000 left which is enough. We were in a court buying 
something and two big fellows had a lot of fun throwing 
stones at us from a roof of the house. 

January I2th. 
LUCKNOW, INDIA. 

I find that I have left out a part of the loth spent in Cal- 
cutta. We took an early trip to the burning ghats, or more 
properly the crematory. In a small walled enclosure close to 
the river are numbers of little pits. Into these they pile the 
logs and then lay the naked body on top. Day and night they 
are always burning and relaying the fires for some poor fellow. 
We were there about eight o'clock and they were just laying 
a man on who had died of plague at one o'clock. Near by 
was the half consumed remains of a boy who had smallpox. 
When you realize how fast plague travels you will see that 
from a sanitary point this crude crematory is for the best. 
When they see tthey are going to die they always give some- 
thing to have their body burned. 

Lucknow is about six hours run from Benares. All about 
here is famous for the siege which this city was under in 1857 
when the Indians mutinied. All the points of interest are 
marked by posts and stones. To one interested in the history 
of the country it is as much of interest as the field of Gettys- 
burg is to us. There are also some large, fine mosques, but our 
time is not spent yet, so will leave off for to-night. 



94 India. 



January 13TH. 

LUCKNOW TO AGRA. 

The mutiny of the native troops and the consequent siege 
which the British underwent is a page in the conquering of 
this empire never to be forgotten. From the 30th of May, 
1858, to the end of November, the British were surrounded 
by tens of thousands of natives trying to capture the place. 
Two or three reHefs came to them, but it was not until Col. 
Campbell came with his Highlanders that they were enabled 
to march out and evacuate the place. The original force was 
reduced from over 3,000 to 900. Their leaders were killed, 
and as the veteran who took us over the ground said, they 
could not have held out a day longer. The old buildings are 
still kept as best they can. All the original lines and fortifi- 
cations are shown and one becomes intensely interested the 
more you hear of its brave defense. Around about this are 
clustered other spots connected with the siege. At Lecundra 
Bogh 2,000 natives were killed. La Martineere College, a 
school for boys, historic also in many ways. There are also 
numbers of temples and gardens. We left Lucknow in the 
afternoon for Agra by way of Cawnpur. Cawnpur did not 
compare with Lucknow, but its people suffered more from 
treachery, and the beautiful Memorial well with the Angel of 
Resurrection over it marks the spot where so many noble souls 
were cast both dead and alive. Cawnpur is quite a manufac- 
turing district. We reached Agra late at night. 




TAJ MAHAL, AGRA, INDIA. 



India. 95 



January 14TH. 

AGRA. 

The great interest that centers around Agra is the Taj 
Mahal. Indeed it is a thing of beauty; it is a wonder of the 
world. If you have read of India you have read of the Taj. 
It was built several hundred years ago as a mausoleum for the 
wife of Shah Jehan. Truly it is typical of the beauty of 
woman with all its graceful minarets and nobly rounded 
mosques. You see it ; you wonder. The longer you gaze, the 
more you admire such dainty and accurate carving. No back- 
ground to set it off but the deep blue of the sky. And no 
matter whether you see it close or from the distance it is 
just as beautiful. All pure marble with some inlaid work. 
Inside the great dome rest the remains of Shah Jehan and his 
wife side by side in two stone-studded caskets. Around them 
are the tombs of their children. We saw the Taj by moon- 
light, but not so as to be able to mark out its delicate structure. 
Nothing could be more beautiful that this great mass of snowy 
marble under the blaze of the brightest of suns. Outside 
the Taj there is little of interest in Agra, unless you mention 
the very large historic fort and about half a dozen Mahom- 
medan Mosques. All this region is sacred to Mahomet and 
almost every building of any significance has its inlaid floor 
with the prayer points toward Mecca. 

January 15TH. 

We traveled 23 long miles through clouds of dust in a 
dirty gherry to see the ancient city of Fatehpar Siku, built in 
1570, and still well preserved in certain parts. It is built of 
red sandstone and is rather grand and massive, but outside of 



96 India, 

its historic interest it is nothing, and we were much disap- 
pointed having such a long trip out, 

January i6th. 

We left Agra last night by Punjab mail and arrived 
late at night here. Delhi will be our farthest point north. 
From here we will go down until a week will land us fifteen 
hundred miles farther south (back in Colombo). I would 
advise any one coming through India to at least get a smack 
of the history of the mutiny. So much of Lucknow, Cawnpur, 
Agra and Delhi are places of interest from their connection 
with the mutiny that you must really know something of it 
to take any interest whatever in what is shown. Delhi 
was most important of all the places, for it was here the 
king was and as the place was in the hands of the rebels 
it was necessary to retake it in order to hold India. This of 
course was done, but at a fearful cost. No wonder when yoii 
read of it the British keep such a tight rein on the natives. 
Inside the large fortifications are the palace connected with 
which are the turkish bath, the pearl mosque all built of pure 
marble with fine inlaid work. Just at present they are under 
repairs by an Italian and when he completes his work will 
add more interest. One coming to Delhi cannot forget the 
great mosque of Jumma Musjid containing many sacred relics 
of the famous prophet, all of which may be seen for 30 cents. 
Also the Jain temple, the memorial to the mutiny and other 
mosques should not be forgotten. Looking out from the 
King's palace in the fort you get a fine view of the river Jumma 
in the distance flowing around the city. 



Ikdia, 97 



January 17TH. 

The object of our jaunt was Kutal Minari, a large minaret 
of 238 feet in height. You journey out to it through the same 
dusty country, which is even more desolate than the ordinary. 
Soon after leaving the city gates we stopped at the big build- 
ing which covers the temple of the father of the great Akbar. 
From here we caught a glimpse of the Kutal, so far away in 
the distance. Stopping at several different tombs until we 
reached the bungalow where we lunched before seeing the 
sights. There is really little to see outside this great pillar 
built up from a diameter of 47 feet at the base to 9 feet at the 
summit. Nearby is a deep well where for eight annas a native 
will give you a high dive. Someone having kindly partaken 
of our guide book, we turned home, too provoked to see any 
more. 

January i8th. 

JEYPORE. 

The Maharajah of Jeypore is the "whole thing" here. His 
palace is in the center of the city, and everywhere are evi- 
dences of his handiwork. The first thing you notice is the 
broad street; then the buildings, all built of the same ma- 
terial and decorated with the same pink and white colors, 
block after block of them. Behind this "pink cake" the build- 
ings looked quite like most of India's tumbling down hovels, 
but they always present the regulation front. The palace 
being the main thing here, we go. The Rajah kindly gives 
us permission to inspect his quarters. His palace is rather 
ill kept and dirty, but his 400 blooded horses, his herd of 
elephants, his tigers, crocodiles, etc., all were worth the guide's 



98 India. 



tips. He has 3,000 servants under him, so you see if his cook 
should leave he would still have someone to cook for him. 



January 19TH. 

EN ROUTE BOMBAY. 

Having had a touch of India's sun at Jeyporc I have not 
a clear recollection of all that city, but whatever of interest 
we saw can be brought back by a guide book, and further, for 
the above reason we did not stop at Ahmmedabad, as planned, 
but came straight through to Bombay reaching here after a 
very dusty ride through a country as desolate as we have yet 
seen. In spite of all this desert we saw numerous bands of 
wild monkeys, peacocks, parrots and other creatures, includ- 
ing the humans. Bombay is a modern city and has the best 
hotel we have found since leaving home. We visited the 
Victoria Gardens, passing through the streets where every- 
thing is busy and bustling with traffic and trade. They waste 
so much time here striking a bargain. 

January 2ist to 24TH. 

BOMBAY TO TUTICORIN. 

We left Bombay after a quiet day and launched forth 
once more, not as sight-seers, but as simple travelers who 
having torn through India on the regulation route are now 
looking for a quiet place to rest. The country down to ^ladras 
from Bombay is much more cultivated and has a healthier 
aspect than other parts. Perhaps the recent rains had given 
it its greener, fresher look. On the 23rd we spent the day 



India. 99 

in Madras visiting the museum, which is a large one and 
covers a good deal of space. I believe it is used in connection 
with the Madras University. It was a rest to get off the cars 
for even a day and then on down over the same route by 
which we entered the empire, and so to-night we have left 
India behind us, right over there where the sun went down. 

The Captain of our ship first questioned us, "What do you 
think of it?" "N" promptly answers, "I don't like it" ; neither 
do I. Yet! who can know anything of India without feeling 
an interest in it. There are those millions of people who have 
come down out through ages with all their wonderful his- 
tory of religious warfare, intrigue of monarchs whose riches 
were more than any other in the world; all the assassinations, 
cruelty, and finally the firm hand of the British taking hold 
of them. They are controlled, but it is like the cobras which 
the fakers use in their tricks. They have pulled the poison 
fangs out, but the spirit is all there. And in the native 
there is more of him beside — all his old instincts, all his fanat- 
ical beliefs are still here. He is a child of nature living his 
primitive life a half starved coyote of the desert. Little 
knowledge, ever crafty, he looks on the white man as lord, 
for he has had his lesson and there is the native. His country 
is covered with monuments in ancient temples and fortresses ; 
they all speak for themselves, each stone of each place can tell 
a story that would fill a book. Outside of these things there 
is nothing in India. If you want climate, stay away; if nat- 
ural scenery, stay away; if comforts, stay away; but for the 
rest go and see. 

January 25TH. 
KANDY, CEYLON. 

Temperature, 85°. 75 miles. 

Having successfully passed across from Tuticorin to Co- 



100 Ceylon, 

lombo we spent the morning in flying about town. It was a 
joy to find a large package of mail awaiting us and having 
a claim as superior tramps we pushed some sleepy natives 
off the bench. 

About two o'clock we took train up to Kandy, What a 
gorgeous land is Ceylon, after India, Instead of a dry desert 
here they have an over-abundance of water. Rice paddys and 
hay fields are all afloat. Not only this, but the railroad (run 
by the government) is such an improvement over India. Really 
prosperity seems to abound here after the poverty over there. 
About three-fourths the way up to Kandy the road begins to 
climb and with an engine before and another after we push up 
into the hills slowly, but surely. Gradually the rivers and 
lowlands grow smaller and as we emerge from each tunnel 
they become smaller and smaller till you have a perfect birds- 
eye view of the whole country stretching out between the giant 
hills. As fair a country as man ever trod upon. The cool 
breeze greets us as we near Kandy and after Colombo is like 
a cold lemonade on a day in midsummer. We find a good 
hotel overlooking the little artificial lake so well known and 
having a cool bath, a good dinner and a little walk beside the 
lake we feel like human beings once more with the full 
power to enjoy all these wonders spread out before us. 

January 26th. 

COLOMBO, CEYLON. 

Temperature, 88°. 75 miles. 

The Prince of Wales is about to visit Colombo and all 
roads to Kandy are putting on their party dresses for him. 
It is so easy to decorate here when foliage is so abundant and 
labor so cheap. With fruits, flowers and leaves you may make 
a path to paradise in a day. 



Ceylon, 101 

Our carriage drive took us out through the great forests 
and before taking train we stopped to enjoy the wonderland 
of Kandy (the Botanical garden). We have seen many gar- 
dens, but from a large variety standpoint this is by far the best. 
Spice plants, palm trees, etc., galore, all kinds, shapes and sizes. 
The river forms a big bend at the garden making a pretty sight 
from the road as you look through the giant bamboo trees at 
it. Most of the tea plantations are up in these highlands. Tea 
plants are a very common looking shrub, but it must be a 
science to know just how to get the delicate flavors from it. 
Some coffee is grown, but we did not see much. Outside this 
are the banana plantations and cocoanuts everywhere. As 
we came along down the railroad we passed numerous high 
piles of earth ranging from 5 to 7 feet. These are ant hills. 
What is our labor beside the rearing of these huge structures. 
Everything in Colombo awaits the royal visit and accommo- 
dations are scarce, but our ship sails in one more day so with 
just room to pack up in we forget everything in the press of 
time. 

January 27TH. 
COLOMBO. 

Temperature, 85°. Our last day in Ceylon. Everything 
aboard and ready to sail. It is going home, but I am sorry 
to leave this pleasant land; when may we feel those soft, 
spicy breezes again or stand out in the open air in midwinter 
and wish it were a trifle cooler. All these we leave behind 
us in Colombo with harbor lights gradually growing dimmer. 
Away out on the ocean once more, where everything is at rest 
and peace. 



102 At Sea. 

January 28th, 

ON BOARD GROSSER KURFUST. 

A quiet Sunday. Really our first Sunday in some weeks 
with real services and music. We have very few passengers 
on board for such a big ship, but for this we receive all the 
more attention. A perfect day and perfect sea. We are very 
luck}^ No more land now till we reach Aden in about six 
days. 

January 29TH. 

Temperature, 88°. Run, 368. Same sea. Same weather. 
Same crowd. Just the same old ship; just the same old room- 
mate. A little exercise to liven up the crowd. 

January 31ST. 

Temperature, 88°. Run, 355. 

Crowd waking up. Quite a lively doctor who loves whis- 
key, but has brought around the crowd in good shape. Ev- 
erybody in the game. 

February ist. 

Temperature, 85°. Run, 350. 

N won the Bull Board. Hurrah! I disgrace myself 

the first day. Sighted land a long way off this morning. Will 
reach Aden late Friday night. A scudding sea and a little 
more monsoon. 

February 2xd. 

Temperature, 85°. Distance, 312. 

Passed several slow freighters. Occasionally I think we 



Aden, Arabia, 103 

catch a faint glimmer of the northern shore. We are fast 
becoming acquainted with one another. The Americans are 
over 25 per cent of the first cabin, 

February 3RD. 

Temperature, 80°. Distance, 170. 

Early this morning we laid off the desolate and hilly Arab- 
ian town of Aden. Here as elsewhere Britania rules and the 
principal buildings in sight are the British barracks. 

Almost as quickly as the gulls to gather around were the 
swarm of natives who strive so hard to make a bargain it 
is a question whether they will fall a prey to numerous sharks 
or be smashed by a rival tradesman, but soon the ostrich feath- 
ers, baskets, sword fish, sharks' jaws, horns, etc., are flying 
up to the ship and the shillings are flying back in the improvised 
elevator. Very soon after anchoring the German mail steamer 
from Japan came in and now we are flying side by side in a 
mad rush for home. This is the faster ship but with one 
boiler out of action she will probably distance us. We ran 
quite close to the barren hills after leaving Aden and shortly 
we turned up into the Red Sea, The same old sea through 
which the children of Israel waded in their escape from 
Egypt. It is easy to understand its name for just before the 
sun went over into Africa it cast its red glow from ship to 
shore. 

It is strange what rather queer people you run across in 
traveling. Not the same quite home-like folks, but mostly 
the restless bummers, who, like the dunce on the stool, finds 
it hard to sit still. 

As a rule they are heavy drinkers, good gamblers, and 
jolly jokers; but here we are amongst them, and of them, so 
why should we see the mote in their eyes. Enough, and too 
much, said. 



104 At Sea. 

To-night we are in sight of two continents on one side, 
a Hght flashes and the other it is still. Asia and Africa. 

February 4th. 

Distance, 378. Hot and sultry. Stern wind. 85°. 

Morning service again. The lesson was suitable to the 
situation being of the Children of Israel's flight across the 
Red Sea. Such gorgeous nights as we are having, I cannot 
help but let my thoughts linger out under the brilliant night. 

"The night 
Hath been to me a more familiar face 

Than that of man ; and in her starry shade 
Of dim and soHtary loveHness, 

I learned the language of another world." 

We think of the night with so much blackness as something 
to be shunned, a time when the evil of the world goes forth, 
but what is more peaceful than those quiet glistening gems 
above you. Those unknown away up there in the dark, each 
set in place like the lights of a great auditorium and then 
that glorious moon comes forth whose light, while more pow- 
erful than the stars, cannot eclipse them in their beauty. 

It (the moon) spreads its sheen across the waves till they 
glow like burnished shields and all the time you are looking 
and wondering the soft breeze is fanning. And so there is 
much of company in the night. Such peaceful company and 
to those who watch out the long hours till the east grows 
crimson again, there must ever be a touch of sympathy, they 
must learn to know each other whether they be under the 
Southern Cross or Northern Bear. Each star tells his story 
to those w^ho ask, "Where am I?" be he mariner or wanderer 
of the land. 



At Sea. 105 



February 5th. 

Distance, 350 miles. Wind in our face. Temperature, 
75°. A good clear day, with our rival ship still near us. We 
have passed many ships going south. 

February 6th. 

Distance, 342 miles. Cold night. Good stiff breeze. Little 
sea. Temperature, 65° to 70°. We are up in the Gulf of 
Suez. We passed in sight of the historical Mt. Sinai. On 
both sides the land has closed in and is quite interesting after 
seeing so much water. The Red Mountains. 

February 7TH. 

Distance, 280 miles. Temperature cooler, 65°. 

We landed in Suez bright and early, not landed, but la\ 
off the entrance of the canal till the proper arrangements 
were made. Our fee for going through was 80,000 francs. 
which is largely profit, so you can see what a paying venture 
it was for the Frenchman. The town of Suez proper lies a 
ways back from the canal, but the entrance is marked bv 
quite a settlement and station which is connected by rail with 
the mainland. About 10:30 we started through, going at about 
five knots an hour. This canal was not so difficult in construc- 
tion, as it passes through a comparatively level desert. To 
be sure the shifting sand does not make a reliable basin and 
cars were still at work. This ship is the largest that goes 
through the canal and at certain sections it was necessary to 
stop to allow boats going down to pass. It is a wonderful 
system they have for lighting, keeping the channel clear, etc., 
and needs as much organization as a small government. Each 



106 At Sea. 

section has its cultivated station house which makes a pretty 
picture in this bleak and desolate country. Now and then 
a ragged Arab will pass with his bunch of camels, ships of 
the desert, and like the burros of America seemingly living 
on nothing. And so late in the night we are still going through. 
Now and then rubbing the sides of a friend ship on her way 
out, all with search lights set. 

February 8th. 

Ditsance, loo miles. Temperature, 60°. Cool stifif breeze. 
We were awakened by the joyful song of the coal passers 
off Pt. Said and having a few hours between daylight and 
leaving time, went ashore to inspect the town. It is a shift- 
less, dirty sort of place, with nothing remarkable about it. A 
kind of town where you find the cast off sailor, the wayward 
adventurer, a place bordering between heathenism and civi- 
lization with all the evils of the former and desoluteness of 
the latter. It was a day when five large passenger steamers 
had come in so prices had gone up accordingly. Having filled 
our coal bunkers we turned our prow out to sea. We were 
well out when someone discovered we had forgotten our bill 
of health for the Italian ports. So strange as it may seem for 
such a big ship, we calmly "lay to" for an hour just outside the 
breakwater. It was a large rolling sea and gave signs of worse 
to come. A German Lloyd passing with salted stacks. 

February qth. 

Distance, 332 miles. Temperature, 55°. Stiff breeze. 
Long rolling sea. We are finding the Mediterranean Sea a 
rather unsteady proposition but it would be strange if it were 
not after so much calm weather. Many strangers have come 
on board and many friends have left us. A euchre party 
is in order for to-night, but is still unsettled. 



At Sea. 107 



February ioth. 

Distance, 340 miles. Temperature, 50°. Rough sea. Wind 
and rain. Still the sea is tossing us along. We passed Crete 
early last night which showed up quite plain in the catches of 
moon through the clouds. The bad weather has kept us in 
doors. To-night was the Captain's dinner. Not very strong 
yet plenty of good fellowship. 

February iith. 

Distance, 416 miles. Stiff breeze; bright sun. Not so 
much sea. Very early before daylight we passed through the 
Strait of Messina. We saw the lights of the towns showing 
very brightly then about seven we rolled along off Stromboli, 
an active volcano, but outside a funnel of white smoke coming 
out of its top there was little excitement. All around were 
an endless swarm of little islands as far as you could see but 
the prettiest sight of all was the clean white town which clung 
to the side of the volcano down to the water's edge. A rather 
dangerous vicinity, yet they probably think as little of it as 
we do of some smoking chimney. 

It was a question whether we should reach Naples before 
dark so that we could go ashore, but about three o'clock in 
the afternoon the large range of hills to the south of Naples 
showed up on the horizon and soon after we were able to dis- 
cern that rather frightful monster which has had such a 
record as a life detsroyer, Mt. Vesuvius, and like its southern 
friend, smoking in a lively manner. As we turned up into the 
pretty bay of Naples we passed Capri, so well known for the 
Blue Grotto. 

As we ran closer in you could plainly see the sides of the 
hills covered with Olive trees. From our point of view seem- 



108 Italy. 

ing to rise out of the rocky cliffs but in reality on cultivated 
terraces. Naples spreads itself out along the blue water like 
one of its pretty coral necklaces. It has little of a harbor to 
speak of, but there is room for us and that is enough. It was 
dark before we landed but from what we saw of the town on 
the way to the hotel was enough to make you know you were 
once more in the land of the living where the heathen are no 
more. Such a meal and such a bed ; 'tis paradise after being 
knocked about on the sea for two weeks. 

February I2th. 

NAPLES, ITALY. 

Temperature, 55°. Bright sun. 

Our first impressions of Naples are good. It is not the 
dirty beggar rid city that has been described to us, to be 
sure, those are both here, but what can compare to the filth 
of China or the poverty of India. As usual we trimmed our 
sail for the shops and have equipped ourselves in the garb 
of respectability. The great temple of shops is the gallery of 
the Don Carlo's Opera House and just across the street from 
that famous building around about this great gallery are 
shops innumerable stretching up along the A'ia Roma to the 
National Museum. The next important building along the 
water front is the Royal Palace well guarded with the giant 
statues of Naples' eight rulers. 

Just in front of the palace is a large court artistically 
adorned with two equestrian statues and just back of which 
is the handsome church (built in a crescent) of San Fran- 
cisco di Paola. 

The first night as we came by this church the court was 
aglow with lights and formed a beautiful crescent. The church 



Italy. 109 

itself is a copy of the Pantheon. The arsenal is hardly worth 
mentioning for such a large affair and after passing through 
an area of hotels you come to the villa Natzionale which is a 
very pretty park neatly set off with statues, fountains, etc., 
and in the midst of which is a large aquarium. Not having 
been inside, I cannot describe it. We have arranged our plans 
to climb Mt. Vesuvius in the morning. 

February 13TH. 

Cold and rain, 50°. 

It was a dismal day to think of taking the long trip up the 
volcano and we were glad to find it would not be made on 
account of the weather so out we strolled through the center 
of the city to the museum. The building itself has nothing to 
attract the visitor it being built as a cavalry barracks and not 
an art gallery. 

After waiting for an hour in a cold room we proceeded to 
do the museum. I say do it for to study or examine its great 
halls of marble statues, bronzes, the heaps of treasure which 
have come out of Pompei and Herculaneam not to mention 
the great number of paintings is all the work of a week. 
Suffice to say, one must admire the artistic taste of the Ital- 
ian. It is a gift which I firmly believe having seen Paris and 
London which is of such a high class that it stands in my 
poor admiration at the top. Whether the modern artist inherits 
the gift of his ancestors is a question. We were glad to get 
back to our comfortable rooms out of the cold and damp. 
Here to spend the rest of the day in comfort. 

February 14TH. 

Cold and rain; 40°. 

Another horrible day; again we put off our visit up the 
mountain. So cold that a few flakes of snow chanced to ap- 



110 Italy. 

pear, and all this in Sunny Italy. But I prefer a hotter clime ; 
and with a very bad cold, the best place is my steam heated 
room. 

February 15TH. 

Temperature, 50°. Cold; wet a. m., p. m. clear. 

A morning spent in trying to draw together the forces of 
nature to break a bad cold. In the afternoon we drove to 
Posilipo. It is a high rocky isthmus from which you look 
back over the world-famed Bay of Naples to the clear-cut city. 
On the other side the gentle slope runs down to the valley 
almost entirely covered with grapevines. Such a beautiful 
touch of spring, the blossoming fruit trees bring. We have 
missed Japan during the cherry blossom season, but have 
recovered it in Italy. 

February i6th. 
Miles, 35. Clear and bright; 55° to 60°. 
A DAY UP VESUVIUS. 

When you go to Vesuvius you start in a carriage, you ride 
in a train, you take a trolley, then a bus ride, next another 
trolley, then you walk a mile, then you take a cable which is 
almost an elevator, then you walk some more and there you 
are. 

The mountain lies just across the bay from the city, always 
in clear weather a pretty sight. The tram running through the 
vineyards and garden patches and finally reaching the base of 
the mountain. You see the first evidences of the early erup- 
tions in massive black lava fields in and among which have 



Italy. Ill 

already sprung up a small verdant forest. These continue till 
you reach the huge flows which came down in 1892 distinctly 
discernible by their darker and more rugged appearance. In 
fact, the whole field looks like little more than the slag from 
our great blast furnaces. Overhead is the huge furnace, pour- 
ing forth a large torrent of steam and rocks seeming to pre- 
pare to devour our approaching party. At last we reach the 
snow line and a little further all progress is stopped. You take 
a guide and hand in hand you pass up over the steaming ashes 
to the great roaring crater. Every few minutes there comes 
forth a sound like a thousand sky rockets and huge rocks 
whirl through the dense smoke, it being a question whether 
you can dodge the rocks or lose your balance on the steep 
mountain side. But thanks to providence and the guide, you 
receive nothing but a heavy shower of ashes. It was disap- 
pointing not to be able to go quite up to the crater, but the 
volcano is too active What a beautiful stream the red hot 
lava makes as it pours forth on its errand of destruction down 
the valley. I say destruction for where it strikes an iron rail 
or telegraph pole it is gone and there is no holding it within 
bounds. This is surely the Devil's own chimney and I would 
not care to live near it. The Italian government keeps guards 
posted everywhere to watch it day and night. 

February 17TH. 
NAPLES TO ROME. 

Rail distance, 155 miles. Clear; cool; temperature 50° 
to 60°. 

We left Naples early and landed in Rome about 2 o'clock. 
All the way the mountains with their snow clad tops ran along 
beside us. 



112 Italy. 

Starting with the vineyards the valleys gradually worked 
up into the wooded highlands till they reached the snowy tops. 
We found much to admire in Rome and enjoyed the luxury 
of the bright sun. 

What a small impression this great historic city makes on 
one but let them fling wide, their imagination to the time when 
legions went tramping out to conquer in unknown lands or 
great Caesars ruled the world from this throne. 

February i8th. 
Clear and bright. Spent sick abed. Dr. Baldwin. 

February 19TH, 
Sick. Fine weather again. 

February 20th. 
Little better. Still nice outdoors. 

February 2ist. 

This morning with what little strength I have left after 
my fever, we spent in going over the Coliseum, Forum and 
then to St. Peters Cathedral. To get into the spirit of the 
place you must call back those old days and all I could think 
of was Quo Vadis, Henry Sienkiewicz's novel. 

The Coliseum was the spot where Christianity first started 
out on its grand triumph over all the civilized world. There 
is little of beauty in the place and you turn to the arch of 
Constantine with pleasure after viewing its mossy stones. The 
Forum is a grand heap of ruins well and accurately described 
by guide books. 

I was more impressed with the entrance way on the out- 



Italy. 113 

side of St. Peters than its interior though you do not realize 
its vastness till you step inside. The construction is as artistic 
as Italians can make it with the fountains, statues of the 
Saints, etc., so well balanced with the great dome and cross 
rising high up in the background. 

February 22Nd. 

Rain and cold. Temperature 50° to 55°. In a drizzling 
rain we left the outside world and entered the choicest collec- 
tion of paintings in Rome, those of the Vatican. Here Rapheal 
simply spread his enchanted brush on every spot possible, 
making the walls and ceilings a paradise to students and lovers 
of art. However, some of the choicest appealed to me less 
than those with the clearer cut figures. Raphael's Ascension 
of Christ, a combination of two scenes in Christ life in one, 
was worth all the rest. The Sistine Chapel was so dark and 
gloomy we could not make out its wondrous bible story. I 
cannot understand why as they charge admission they do not 
heat the buildings ; they are as cold and damp as barns. I 
suppose they are afraid of fire. 

Back to our room to rest over our tired necks. 

Rest Tailor and good night. 

February 23RD. 

Cloudy and cold. Temperature, 55°. 

Rome to-day is a city of about 425,000. In the second cen- 
tury it was about an even million but in this long lapse of 
time wondrous changes have gone on. At one time there 
were less than 80,000, so that the great treasures of the old 
days were laid aside, buried or utterly destroyed by vandals. 
However, there was enough left to bring back those old glories 



114 Italy. 

and by piecing and patching put them away in safe places for 
future thousands to see. Such a collection was that we 
saw at the Capitaline museum. The very finest marble statues 
and busts of every noted man and woman not to mention a 
thousand gods and goddesses. A great many of these marble 
treasures have been found by the working men in excavating 
the Forum and other buildings. 

We saw the Baths of Carcalla which are little less than a 
heap of ruined brick piles with hardly a trace of what it once 
was. 

The columns of the Temple of Vesta well represent the 
stolen art of the Greeks being the most perfect specimens of 
Corinthian art we have seen. This afternoon we fairly raced 
through the gallery of modern art. The pictures are so much 
clearer and finer than the old masters, I cannot but feel my 
education in fine art has been neglected. 

February 24TH. 

ROME TO FLORENCE. 

Miles, 180. Cold and rain. Temperature, 50°. 

Having spent so much of my time in Rome abed we decided 
to visit at the last moment some of the minor attractions and 
went to the church of "San Maria Maggiore", the largest of 
eighty churches in Rome. Its most striking features are the 
beautiful little chapels on each side in which have been laid 
some of the old Popes. 

From Rome to Florence it rained in torrents and to my 
still sick eyes made a dismal picture. Occasionally we passed 
a pretty river or lake but most of the way was quite dull. 




GRAND CANAL, VENICE. 



Italy. 115 



February 25TH. 
FLORENCE. 

Bright and clear. Rather mild. 

To see Florence drive to the Piazza del Signoria find the 
bronze slab marking the spot where Savonarola was burned 
face towards the Loggra dei Lanzi and you see some of the 
finest statues in the world, in the open hall, to the left behind 
a huge fountain of Neptune is the old palace or government 
house with grand painted hall. Just beyond this is the picture 
gallery of Uffizi which next to the Vatican at Rome contains 
more old treasured pictures than anywhere else in the world 
not to speak of all the marble works. 

In the afternoon we went through the Royal Apartments 
of the King and Queen in the Petti Palace, then out into the 
pretty park and warm sunshine. How pleasant the outdoors 
is after staying so much in these gloomy halls. 

February 26th. 

Clear and bright; 60°. 

Again we follow our guide book through the Uffizi and the 
gallery at the Petti palace, such a host of paintings, they blur 
the memory unless you would gaze at each treasure an hour 
or so which would take a lifetime. The afternoon was spent 
in a pretty drive out back of the town away from all its old 
castles and churches. I must not forget the cathedral close 
by which are a beautiful Baptistery and a large campanile. 

February 28th. 

FLORENCE TO VENICE. 

169 miles. Cloudy and rain. Morning spent in packing. 
Set off at 2 o'clock for Venice. Fine scenery all the way; 



116 Italy. 

quite hilly. Land in Venice and find everything just as de- 
scribed to us. Even the huge black gondola which carries 
us to our hotel. I never expected to see this city but here I 
am surrounded by its water. 

March ist. 

Clear and warm; 50° to 60°. 

You would not know unless told that all these dark and 
dilapidated palaces which line this Grand Canal, these great 
churches, including the grandest of all, St. Mark's, were 
made of the finest and whitest of marbles. A few hundred years 
makes quite a difference. How common it all seems to stand 
in the great square in front of St. Mark's and drop corn down 
the throats of the fluttering pigeons. You get your money 
back when those same birds are served up for dinner. 

St. Mark's is truly a fine old church and well deserves the 
admiration of our over-crowded brains. Such domes of gold 
and paintings that adorn its interior all in the finest of mosaics. 
Its great altars of precious jewels are worth seeing a good 
many times. You must not forget the four prancing bronze 
steeds that prance just over the doorway or the beautiful lan- 
tern that hangs in the center of the interior. 

Outside the bronze men are striking their hammers on the 
great bell and the strange old clock stares down on the prom- 
enading public. The afternoon was spent in a quiet lazy life 
of floating down the grand canal while each palace and building 
of interest was pointed out to us, then back from the Rialto 
bridge through a way that is walkable, and again home. 

March 2nd. 

Clear and bright. A visit through the glass works and lace 
factories is well worth the time if you can rigidly keep your- 



Italy. 117 

self from buying all you see for they do have such artistic 
and beautiful things. 

We saw all the horrors and beauties of the old Palace, 
passed across the bridge of sighs, looked into all the old dun- 
geons and felt thankful we were not alive in those old days. I 
regret not being more familiar with the real history of Venice 
to appreciate how that grand republic lost so much of glory 
as its modern buildings of art seem to reveal but I can realize 
what an age of pillage it was. 

It is a pretty scene ; just about six feet below our window 
the festive gondola with lanterns gay float by, while the 
serenaders' sweet unfamiliar words come in to us by our warm 
fireside. 

March 3RD. 
VENICE TO MILAN. 

165 miles. Clear and bright; about 50° to 55°. 

One last look at St. Mark's. They are just putting on the 
finishing touches of the foundation of the new Campanile. 

Good-bye to pretty Venice, the most curious city in the 
world. We are lucky to again have an ideal day in our travel 
to Milan for far back from our way the huge Venetian Alps 
rise up with their snow white peaks and soon after skirting a 
pretty lake we roll into Milan one-half hour late. 

March 4th. 

MILAN. 

Clear and springlike. 

Here is the greatest cathedral we have seen yet. What an 
immense affair it really is. No wonder it took 400 years to 



118 Italy. 

build and now so soon after it is finished it is going to pieces. 
It is a wonderful sight to stand on the top pinnacle 360 feet 
above the maddening crowd and gaze way out over a sea of 
tiled roofs to where the mountains are and all the green coun- 
try. You can easily believe the guide book which sav<5 there 
are 2,000 statues placed on this building and many pinnacles 
towering over all. 

The picture galleries are rather tame compared with those 
we have already seen. I think we have mental indigestion from 
seeing so much as one friend describes it. It is more pleasant 
in the park to me than in the buildings. There it is bright and 
warm, inside the buildings it is cold, dark and gloomv. 

March 5th. 
MILAN TO COMO. 

Weather fine and clear. Temperature, 55°. 

We left the cathedral city about two and after passing 
through a rather flat country you suddenly enter Como and 
the mountains are all about you. We did not find the lake until 
we had driven out of the town for a little ways, then it was all 
the more fascinating with the green sparkling water so clear 
and bright. 

If there were no lake in between these beautiful hills, it 
would be attractive and beautiful, yet the lake is like the 
center of a gorgeous brooch, a perfect emerald between the 
giant pearls around it. 

We were fortunate in finding such a place. It was a mere 
piece of luck and no planned-out joy on which to waste our 
anticipation. 

The hotel lies in a park overlooking the lake and is not 
only an attractive situation but is adorned with such artistic 
statuary, such avenues and lanes, such waterfalls, and in all 



Italy. 119 

is a place where man has vied with nature, sometimes assist- 
ing her in extravagant growth at other places, adding beauties 
by his cunning handiwork. All this does not half tell the story 
as we see it under this bright blue sky. 

March 6th. 
COMO. 

Ville De Es'te. Weather clear and bright. 

All day we have simply bathed in the glories of weather and 
nature surrounding us. In whichever direction the eye wan- 
ders we drink in the loveliness of this place. The very finest 
place in all Italy where one may breathe the ozone-laden air, 
reach up and grasp a few sunbeams into his vitals and walk 
forth on the face of the earth a new man. 

In the quiet of the evening we drift across the Irke to 
the castle-like buildings on the other shore, then back agam 
to our good hotel. I regret my short stay here. 

March 7th. 

COMO TO LUGANO TO LUCERNE. 

We left Como bright and early and with a speedy little 
steamer ran up the lake, stopping at most of the towns on the 
hillsides. It is queer how these little towns seem to add some- 
thing to the picturesqueness of it all. At home we want 
to drive back all these but here they do not detract. 

About eleven o'clock we left Como lake at Menaggio and 
took a little train up over across the hills and dov>^n through 
Porlezza to Lake Lugano. I have been soaring up in the 
skies on these last few pages, yet it is all true. We cross the 



120 Lucerne. 

frontier line, stop at a few more places, then land at Lugano, 
which is quite a large town. Our stay here is but an hour, 
just time for lunch, then away we speed by rail off up among 
the Alps of Switzerland. How often have those mountains 
been looked at from every point of view, by thousands and 
millions. They have listened to their praises sung by every 
nation of the globe yet they are so perfectly grand and glor- 
ious as when first turned out of that giant work shop. As large 
and magnificent as they are they are no barrier to man, who 
has pierced and climbed them in every direction. 

St. Gothard's railway alone cost 48 million, a task of twenty 
years, yet we do not realize the cost and time as we glide so 
swiftly over it all through the long tunnel (9)^ miles), then 
with one grand sweep around Lake Lucerne and we are landed 
at Lucerne, Switzerland. 

March 8th. 
LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND. 

Again the sun is shining bright for us as we s^art out to 
see Lucerne. The town lies at the head of the lake with a good 
healthy stream coming down the valley to divide it in two. 
The modern trolley lines run round in quite a home-like man- 
ner and everything is clean and neat. After a few minutes 
walk we came to the little park which surrounds the copy of 
Thorwaldsen's Lion. It is evidently a furious beast as it 
was all boxed up (to preserve it from the strenuous winter 
weather). 

Most of the local sights are in the same condition. The 
Muhlenbrucke bridge is worth remembering with its large 
tower standing in the stream. But for all our disappointment 
we were thoroughly satisfied to enjoy the mountains around 
and feel the cool brisk breezes coming up the valley. 



Paris, 121 

The cathedral we saw and had a pleasant ride into the 
country side. 

March qth. 
LUCERNE TO PARIS. 

Miles, 385. Cold wet weather, 45° to 50°. 

We started for Paris before the sun had come over the 
mountains. A miserable cold wet day quite in contrast to what 
we have been having and making it impossible to see any- 
thing but the fleeting way close beside our track. Tunnel 
followed tunnel until we reached the frontier when we again 
ran out into a rolling agricultural district which is intersected 
with pretty canals and roadways. For a short space we 
passed through German territory (Alsace) and I regret to 
have found such stupid railroad officials, they even going to 
the extreme of putting us off the train when our tickets 
plainly showed we had paid our passage. 

It was very late when we came to brilliantly lighted Paris. 
So anxious were we to get there that we took every suburb 
for the great city. 

March ioth. 

Clear and bright. 

Paris is an old friend and with the exception of the under- 
ground railroad has scarcely changed in ten years when I 
was first introduced to the gay laughing city. We were 
fortunately disappointed in finding such pleasant weather so 
far north and enjoyed ourselves doing nothing but driving the 
streets seeing the shops and recruiting our wardrobes. 

In spite of the underground railroad the streets are filled 
with busses, cabs and worst of all a thousand automobiles 



122 Pakis. 

seem to fairly fly through the crowds. It is a good place to 
take out an accident policy. 

March iith. 

Showers and cool. Driving and a quiet day. 

March i2th. 

Cold; hail; rain; 40°. 

We have seen Notre Dame, Morgue, Madeline, etc., all in 
our own swift pace. 

There is little in them that is not in a thousand guide books 
only any one that expects to see things as are described 
will be bitterly disappointed. The marble statues will be black 
and dusty with age, the golden ornaments will look little better 
than burnished brass while even the jewels will give you some 
apprehension as to their reality, suffice to say, you must be- 
lieve what you read and hear about these wonderful works 
of man and read the convincing history at a more leisure 
moment. There is one thing that is and always will be just 
as you see it, that is the light breaking through the stained 
glass windows of Notre Dame. They are as beautiful as any- 
thing in the church or out of it that we have seen to-day. 
We hope for a better day to-morrow when we shall start to see 
the Louvre, the greatest treasure house in all France. 

March 13TH. 

Cold and rain ; 40° to 50°. 

What a grand collection is that in the Louvre. We have 
spent the entire day roaming through the famous paintings, 
sculptures, etc., yet we have given things a most hurried glance. 




CHAMPS ELYSEES, LOOKING TOWARD ARCHE DE TRIOMPHE, PARIS. 



Paris. 123 



Many of the paintings come back to me as I see them the 
second time. 

March 14TH. 

Wednesday; another grand day of sight-seeing. We have 
reached a find system and I doubt if two ever galloped over 
the ground more rapidly before. The Louvre again, then the 
Luxemburg with its more modern art, Hotel Des Invalides, 
Lunch, Hotel de Villa. What a grand and magnificent place 
this really is with all its immense halls, ball rooms, so tastily 
painted and sculptured and so modern in all their magnificence. 

Then the Pantheon closed a day that the guide book would 
give a week to and we are not dead yet. 

March 15TH. 

Fair but cloudy. 

I spent the entire morning walking the streets. What a 
way to name the streets. You start out on one street and 
pretty soon the name is changed although it is really the 
same street. A trip to St. Cloud where the beautiful Severs 
porcelain ware is made. We followed the process, saw the 
fine display, bought a piece and came back to town rather 
disappointed there was no chance to bargain for a dinner set. 

March i6th. 

Cool and cloudy; 45°. 

This morning we went out under the Arche de Triomphe 
where we had some difficulty with a cabman, then over to the 
Bois de Boulogne, the pride of Paris as a park. Really I 
would like to criticise Paris ; they give up so much room to 
parks and public squares that the homes have no grounds 
around them to speak of. It is a mistake which I trust Chicago 



124 Brussels. 

will never come to but nevertheless it is a beautiful park and 
is so artistic with its bridal paths and drives through the cul- 
tivated forests. No grass but such a host of trees to wander 
through. The entire afternoon in Bon Morche. I would 
rather go to jail or the dentist, which is worse. 

March 17TH, 

PARIS TO BRUSSELS. 

Miles, 192^. Fair. Temperature, 45°. 

A rustle and bustle in packing to get off. It seems as 
though Paris is full of automobiles ; they apparently go at 
full speed anywhere they please. They say there are no 
gendarmes in Paris and I guess it's so. There is little of inter- 
est between Paris and Brussels. Now and then you catch a 
pretty chateau tucked away in some wooded hill land but it 
is mostly a farming country. With the slight inconveniences 
of customs examination we land in Brussels just four hours 
after leaving Paris. If you should shut your eyes on leaving 
Paris, open them in Brussels, you would not realize the space 
between, so well is Brussels called Little Paris. 

We inspected the Bourse, saw the square adjoining the 
Stadt house and had a look at the shops. There is nothing 
extraordinary, yet there is more to see. 

March i8th. 
BRUSSELS. 

Miserable weather. Temperature about 35° to 40°. Snow 
and rain. 

To-day being Sunday, we did not try to enter the build- 



En Route, 125 

ings of interest. We went to the government house called 
the Palais Royal and which is supposed to be the largest 
building in the world ; whether it is or not, it is large enough 
for anybody except an Englishman. 

March 19TH. 

BRUSSELS TO ANTWERP. 

Bad weather. Temperature, 40°. 27^ miles. 
At last we found something of real interest in Brussels. 
It was a picture gallery of modern paintings such things as 
looked as though they were alive and not mystical illusions of 
a forgotten age. One last look over the busy little city and 
we are off again to boat at Antwerp. Little could we make of 
the country in the gloomy atmosphere of these Dutch low- 
lands. 

March 20th. 

Miles from Antwerp to London, 259^. It was not a 
pleasant journey across the Channel last night and I regret 
there was some uneasiness among the passengers. Spring is 
trying to come in England and if the trees had half a chance 
they would break out and make things a little brighter ; some- 
how England or London would not be natural without these 
fogs any more than Colorado without sunshine. We found 
the busses still doing business here in London town and the 
same tall Bobbies and all we had seen before. 

Outside our window is Trafalgar square with the Nelson 
Monument. There does not seem to be water enough coming 
out of the sky so they have two large fountains playing to 
keep up with the elements. 

The day was given up mostly to business. We did stroll 



126 London, 

down into quiet old Westminster just for a look and then back 
home. 

March 2ist to 28th. 

My last few days have been so completely filled that these 
daily notes have been neglected. London is a place where you 
can always find things not put down in the guide books and for 
that it is more interesting. 

We have tried to do our duty as sightseers and have only 
the excuse of time that we have not gone out hand in hand 
with Baedeker. Suffice to say, we saw the British Museum, the 
National Gallery, Westminster, St. Margaret's, Houses of 
Parliament, the Tower, Crystal Palace, St. Paul's and the 
South Kensington Museum, besides a thousand more or less 
interesting statues and places. Cheshire Cheese Inn has a 
peculiar charm with the old furniture of the witty Dr. John- 
ston. Twice have we visited the theatre to make up for which 
we heard and I half appreciated all that was said to us by 
Dr. Campbell of the Temple. 

Our hotel is very convenient, being directly on Traflagar 
square, which is always a pleasant sight with its two large 
fountains on each side. It however, has its drawbacks, for 
being in so central a place the traffic must necessarily be large, 
and from "Early morn till dewy eve" you would hear the 
strenuous efforts of the bus conductors after passengers. The 
days in London have simply been ditto marks all the way 
through, heavy fog interposed with rain, hail and snow, dis- 
agreeable everywhere except our little fireside. The temper- 
ature has swayed between 30° to 40° nearly every day. As 
the time draws nearer to sail my heart seems a little more 
active in anticipating the home coming. We ran eighty miles 
from London to Southampton in 90 minutes ; not bad going. 
The Kronprinz was waiting and almost ready to sail. 



At Sea. 



127 



She is a good ship but not as fine or large as I anticipated, 
but is built for speed. We ran across the channel to Cher- 
bourg, then straight on out to sea toward the homeland once 
more. (Southampton to London, 79^ miles.) 

ON BOARD S. S. KRONPRINZ WILHELM. 



Day. 


Weather 


Wind 


Distance 


Sea. 




Cloudy 








28 


and 
Sunny 


Light 




Choppy 


29 


Cloudy 


Stern-light 


405 


Smooth 


30 


Cloudy 


South 


567 


Side Roll 


31 


Stormy 


High North 


552 


Pitch 


I 


Heavy fog 


South 


503 


Side Roll 


2 


Clear 


South 


552 


Smooth 


3 


Clear 


South-West 


About 600 
to land 


Smooth 



April 3RD, 4TH, 5TH and 6th. 



NEW YORK, U. S. A. 



At last we found America ; there she was with her factories 
and light houses showing plainer every minute as we with 
other ships drew into the one great center of commerce, New 
York. 

We were really too busy with custom officers to appreciate 
all the scenes around and it was rather late in the afternoon 
when we sighted our dock crowded with welcomers. 

Here then is the anxious moment and it was hard to tell 
whether the excitement of the home comers ran any higher 
than that of the welcomers. 



128 America. 

At last we have picked out a familiar face or two. Such 
waving and signaling for we feel we are home once more 
and to step ashore to join hands is secondary to the welcome 
that first came to us across the narrowing span of waters. 

I would not tire you with New York. It was good to look 
into the faces of honest Americans once more, to swagger 
down the street, touch elbows with them, and know they were 
friends who thought as much of America as you did. The 
second day found us running up along side the Old Hudson ; 
I say old for Henry's first visit was about as ancient as any- 
thing we can boast of. 

Spring has not begun here yet so the colors are not as 
brilliant as they must be a little later. 

I could not help but wonder what foreigners think of this, 
our entrance gate, as they speed in these luscious Pullman cars 
along as smooth a road bed as there is on earth. And so all 
night and part of the next day we roll on. This is the home 
land; so familiar is it all that you can hear each telegraph 
pole calling "Welcome Home." 

There are the sand hills of Michigan, there is the lake. 
Hasten on good train, up into that dear old dirty, smoky city, 
and here we are landed safe and sound and we are in the 
hands of our friends. 

It is time to draw the curtain; the journey is over. The 
links of our chain in "Our Little Journey Around the World" 
are now complete. Vif> 







